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Diving During the Maldivian Monsoons

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By: Harvey Edwards

Maldives Promotion House – The seasons in the Maldives are dictated by wind direction. While we call them monsoons, to many people that also has connotations of rain and storms.

The Maldives has two main wind directions or ‘monsoons’. The Iruvai Monsoon comes from the NE, which is the direction of the Indian subcontinent and is generally dry and settled, as it passes over a large land area, and relatively small water. The Iruvai is said to start on December 10th, and runs for approximately 4 months until April 7th.

From mid-April the wind tends to come from the SW, picking up a lot of moisture as it moves over the Indian Ocean. Known as the Hulhangu monsoon, this monsoon actually started in India. As the air starts to warm up over the Indian sub-continent (North-hemisphere summer), the air mass rises sharply and there is a rush of wind to replace it, and as it is coming from the SW (moisture-laden ocean) it brings in the rain. Winds in the Maldives are generally at their strongest in May and the rain begins to fall. The Hulhangu monsoon is known as the wet monsoon because of this. This monsoon runs for approximately 6 months.

We must also take into account the changeover period between the monsoons. The wind can change frequently during this time. Just like an ‘Indian summer’ in other countries, these weather patterns change from year to year, but are fairly consistent in the long run. Four months for the Iruvai, six months for the Hulhangu and two months for the changeover period.

 

The Maldivian Nakaiy Calendar

Approximate Date Nakaiy Approximate Description
Dec. 10 – Dec. 22 MULA strong winds, rough seas
Dec. 23 – Jan. 05 FURAHALHA strong north-easterly winds, rough seas
Jan. 06 – Jan. 18 UTHURAHALHA clear blue skies, strong winds, rough seas
Jan. 19 – Jan. 31 HUVAN calm seas, blue skies
Feb. 01 – Feb. 13 DHINASHA north-easterly winds, moderate seas, plenty of sunshine
Feb. 14 – Feb. 26 HIYAVIHA seas are calm, days and and nights are hot
Feb. 27 – Mar. 11 FURABADHURUVA frequent, short, sharp bursts of thunder and lightning
Mar. 12 – Mar. 25 FUSBADHURUVA usually clear blue skies
Mar. 26 – Apr. 07 REYVA if storm occur they may be severe
Apr. 08 – Apr. 21 ASSIDHA begins with storm, then becomes hot and dry
Apr. 22 – May 05 BURUNU begins with a storm and strong winds, then becomes calm
May 06 – May 19 KETHI dark clouds, frequent rains
May 20 – Jun. 02 ROANU storms, strong winds and rough seas
Jun. 03 – Jun. 16 MIYAHELIA storms, rough seas and strong westerly winds
Jun. 17 – Jun. 30 ADHA south-westerly winds and light rain
Jul. 01 – Jul. 14 FUNOAS storms, rough seas, frequent sudden gales
Jul. 15 – Jul. 28 FUS wet and overcast
Jul. 29 – Aug. 10 AHULIA less frequent storms, calmer days
Aug. 11 – Aug. 23 MAA generally calm
Aug. 24 – Sep. 06 FURA isolated showers, usually dry with light north-westerly winds
Sep. 07 – Sep. 20 UTHURA strong north-westerly winds
Sep. 21 – Oct. 03 ATHA generally clear and calm with isolated showers
Oct. 04 – Oct. 17 HITHA light winds, isolated showers
Oct. 18 – Oct. 30 HEY strong winds from all directions
Nov. 01 – Nov. 13 VIHA calm days
Nov. 14 – Nov. 26 NORA light winds, some sun and showers
Nov. 27 – Dec. 09 DOSHA light north-easterly winds

Climate

Take this all with a grain of sand. Large weather patterns affecting the Bay of Bengal for example will have a diluted effect in the Maldives. We are generally considered to be out of the cyclone belt but there have been some nifty storms with cyclones damaging islands forcing evacuations as the islands basically disintegrated due to the persistent pounding of waves in a different direction from normal.

Diving/Staying During the Monsoon

To understand this is to understand the geography of the individual atolls. Have a look at your hotel in regards to East/West.

The Maldives is the lowest country in the world; we’re basically sand banks with a few trees. The outer reef is a barrier reef which does a lot to protect the inner reefs from being smashed to pieces. The coral is usually stunted in the shallows as it gets incredibly strong surge and periodic pounding from waves. Ocean swells of 3 to 5 metres are not uncommon. The surge often gouges out huge grooves in the reef making it look a bit like a tin roof.

If the prevailing wind is coming from the south-west, and your resort is on the south-western side of the atoll you’ll experience the worst of it, or best of it depending on what you want. Villas located over the water can actually shudder when the wind and waves are strong. So it may pay to try to get a room on the eastern side of the island, but then you give up the sunset view. Storms are not common.

For diving this is not necessarily a bad thing. While the weather can be arse, and the winds strong, the wind is also creating the current to a certain extent. While it’s impossible to dive the outside channels when the wind is very strong, the days after can be exhilarating or terrifying to some.

Diving at the western side of the atoll during the SW monsoon you will experience predominantly incoming currents. This means the water is rising from the deep ocean and flowing into the shallow atoll. Viz is generally better, water slightly cooler with better chances to see pelagic. Viz can be 50 metres on a sunny calm day with a good incoming current.

Attention: Can you imagine if it gets worse with 3 to 5 metre swells? Seriously? When good dives go bad here, they can go very very bad, very very quickly. A diver can carry 5 different coloured SMBs, air horns, and mirrors, but if you get pushed outside the atoll in to the ocean when the conditions are like that, you will potentially die simply because the traditional Dhonis (boats) are not stable enough to pick you up. Dhonis are actually very good for the local conditions but most ‘tourist’ Dhonis have a huge wooden sun deck making them very top-heavy. The boat will roll if it attempts to pick you up. Please don’t kid yourself about your abilities to handle yourselves when things go wrong. The ocean is like any dramatic outdoor environment such as a desert, mountain, jungle etc. and conditions change. But these kinds of situations are exceptionally rare and dive centres in Maldives will avoid diving in such situations. 

Diving at the eastern side of the atoll at this time you will experience predominantly outgoing current. The viz is generally worse, let’s say 12 to 15 metres. Lots of plankton, lots of fish and better chances to see mantas and whale sharks. The currents this time are going from shallow to deep water. When the currents are strong, it tends to drop at the end of the atoll and so caution must be taken here as well. Viz is poorer, you’re lower on air/deco at the end of the dive, a bad time to start equalising your ears.

Resort/Liveaboard

I have never worked on a liveaboard or safari boat. Resorts are varied in price and service. It all depends on your wants vs. your $$$. The more expensive the resort, the more service you receive in terms of equipment status (assembled/washed), free water, snacks, group size etc.

In a 5* Resort, you will pay approximately USD 100 per dive with rental equipment. Some resorts have Nitrox for free if you are certified. Resorts and diving centres are usually separate entities but they usually match each other in terms of price and service. The DC rents the location from the resort, which rents the location from the island owner. Don’t expect to pay USD 50 per dive if your room costs USD 1000 per night.

The typical schedule is 2 or 3 dives per day. Night dives are usually scheduled once a week but can be arranged depending on whether the DC has their own boats or leases from the island. In this case, the boat crew can be working nights doing supply runs. I suggest tipping boat crew USD 10 each if they change their schedule for you. Three crew per boat is USD 30. Tipping the diving staff is nice but not as important IMO.

5* is not necessarily better for diving. I’ve worked in two 5* and one 4* and dived with another 3*. The best for diving was the 3*, followed by the 4* and surprise, surprise the 5* came last. Many resorts are marketed as spas and retreats and the quality of divers can be a real mixed bag. If you’re on holiday, want to relax and maybe dive an afternoon or 2- that’s great.

If you’re a dedicated diver in a 5* resort it can be tricky as some of the best dives in the Maldives are also the most challenging, not all but some. Some 5* guests complain about having to swim (seriously), but they want the attractions that come with the current. Carrying a reef hook doesn’t mean you don’t have to swim against the current sometimes. So the 5* resort doesn’t go to these spots when the current is strong, sad but true. If you have the money, go private. It’ll cost a bundle but if you can share the costs with other like-minded divers, it’ll be worth it.

For price, you can’t beat the all-inclusive resort. Diving is probably not included, but you’ll save a ton on food and drink costs. The foreign staff will really appreciate any magazines, books etc. Anything really is OK, well maybe not a tatty newspaper, but you get my point. Doesn’t matter which language, most staff speak at least two and know other staff which speaks the language in question. They’ll be stoked and you can save your $$ tips for the Maldivian and especially Bangladeshi crews. Many boat crews are now coming from Bangladesh or Sri Lanka, the captain will be Maldivian. These guys make about USD 150 to 200 per month.

Liveaboards are for the divers who are coming to the Maldives to dive. Price will work out the same as 5* resort based diving, probably cheaper in the long run. You’ll cover more ground and dive more often and if you’re lucky to be diving with like-minded guests, you can pick and choose the sites you’re more interested in. If I was coming on a 10 to 12 day diving vacation holiday, I’d hit the safari boat first and then go to a 4* resort for a few days of R n R afterwards.

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Night snorkelling reveals hidden underwater world at Ellaidhoo Maldives by Cinnamon

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There’s something quietly thrilling about stepping into the ocean after sunset. At Ellaidhoo Maldives by Cinnamon, when daylight fade and the reef slips into darkness, a completely different world begins to stir. What feels familiar by day transforms into something far more mysterious and far more alive.

Night snorkelling at Ellaidhoo Maldives by Cinnamon begins at around 6:30pm, when guests gather with the experienced team from Dive & Sail Maldives. Equipped with underwater torches, snorkellers ease into the slighly cooler waters surrounding the island, where every beam of light reveals a new discovery hidden within the reef.

What makes night snorkelling so fascinating is the dramatic shift in marine behaviour after sunset. Species that remain tucked away during the day begin to emerge from coral crevices and sandy seabeds. Moray eels weave through the reef in search of prey, octopuses glide silently across the ocean floor, and crustaceans slowly crawl out from their hiding places.

One guest described one of the most unforgettable moments of the experience as watching a group of reef sharks glide past in near-perfect formation. According to the guest, the sudden appearance of six to eight sharks emerging from the darkness was initially startling, but the feeling quickly shifted to awe as they moved calmly and effortlessly through the water, illuminated only by torchlight. The encounter, they shared, felt both thrilling and surreal in the stillness of the night reef.

Beyond the larger marine life, the reef reveals countless smaller details at night that are often missed during daytime snorkelling. Brightly coloured reef crabs, lobster-like crustaceans believed to be spiny lobsters, sleeping parrotfish hidden within the coral, and lionfish hovering near the reef edge all become part of the experience.

The corals themselves also appear remarkably different after dark. Under torchlight, sections of the reef glow with deeper shades of orange, gold, and crimson, while certain soft corals and coral polyps extend outward to feed in the currents.

The house reef at Ellaidhoo Maldives by Cinnamon is widely regarded as one of the Maldives’ most vibrant reefs, celebrated for its rich biodiversity and easy accessibility from the shoreline. Guests planning their next island escape can also take advantage of the resort’s ongoing summer offer, which includes complimentary roundtrip speedboat transfers for stays of seven nights or more along with added benefits through Cinnamon DISCOVERY, the loyalty programme by Cinnamon Hotels & Resorts.

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Kai Lenny joins 2026 Four Seasons Maldives Surfing Champions Trophy line-up

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The Indian Ocean does not need much convincing to put on a show. But for one week each September, it outdoes itself. From September 4 to 11, 2026, Four Seasons Maldives Surfing Champions Trophy returns to the Sultans break for its 14th edition, with multi‑discipline world champion Kai Lenny confirmed as the first athlete in the 2026 line‑up.

Most surfers build careers in one lane. Lenny has built his across all of them. From Jaws to playful walls, thrusters to twins, singles and foils, he has forged a career defined by versatility across disciplines, reflecting the ethos the Surfing Champions Trophy was created to celebrate.

Hosted by Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Kuda Huraa, the invitation‑only event brings together six of surfing’s most celebrated athletes to compete across three board divisions: single fin, twin fin and thruster. Set against the high‑performance walls of Sultans, the format rewards adaptability as much as power, style as much as strategy, and timing as much as talent.

For Lenny, that challenge feels less like unfamiliar territory and more like home. A multi‑time world champion with a reputation forged in big waves and emerging disciplines such as foiling, he is among the athletes well suited to a format that requires competitors to shift craft, rhythm and approach throughout the week.

When Lenny first competed in the Surfing Champions Trophy in 2019, it was not only his performance that stood out, including a win in the thruster division. It was the way he appeared suited to the event itself: a week of changing boards, shifting conditions and high‑performance surf, shaped around a format that values exploration alongside competition.

“Every heat is a final,” says Lenny. “You’re surfing epic waves in paradise against some of the best in the world, but it’s still rooted in having fun. Being able to ride different types of boards is something I love doing every day, so to compete across all of them is epic.”

For 2026, Lenny takes that connection one step further by shaping the boards he will ride throughout the event, adding an additional layer of intent to a competition defined by craft, adaptability and feel.

At a wave like Sultans, defined by consistent conditions and open to interpretation, the ability to adapt across boards and conditions becomes a clear advantage. It also positions Lenny as a fitting first announcement for an event known for attracting athletes recognised for both approach and performance.

Where Champs Come to Surf

First staged in 2011, the Four Seasons Maldives Surfing Champions Trophy has become one of surfing’s most distinctive invitation-only events, bringing six celebrated athletes to Sultans to compete across single fin, twin fin and thruster divisions. Past participants include Mark Occhilupo, Taj Burrow, Josh Kerr, Kelly Slater, Joel Parkinson, Michel Bourez, Carissa Moore, Maya Gabeira and more. Following Bourez’s 2025 win, marked by a return from injury and the event’s only perfect 10, the 2026 edition carries strong momentum. With Kai Lenny now confirmed, the event is already shaping an anticipated return.

The Garden-Island Base at Kuda Huraa

Located 25 minutes by speedboat from Malé, Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Kuda Huraa gives the event its warm, garden-island base, with easy access to North Malé Atoll’s best breaks and a longstanding collaboration with Tropicsurf. Between heats at Sultans, guests can expect post-surf stories, recovery rituals, sunset gatherings and the rare chance to swap board talk with world champions in boardshorts.

The Surf’s Up Package: For Those Who Want In

For guests interested in participating in the week’s program, the Surf’s Up package includes round-trip shared speedboat transfers for two, daily breakfast, four days of Tropicsurf coaching, guided boat transfers to local breaks, use of surf equipment and stand-up paddleboard, daily group yoga, and a 90-minute Myofascial Renewal treatment for two at ŪRJĀ Naturopathy Island.

The remaining 2026 competitor line-up will be revealed in the coming weeks, with updates shared across surfingchampionstrophy.com and Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Kuda Huraa channels.

To reserve a stay during the 2026 Four Seasons Maldives Surfing Champions Trophy or enquire about the Surf’s Up package, contact reservations.mal@fourseasons.com or call +960 66 00 888.

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Holiday Inn Resort Kandooma Maldives reports rare whale shark encounter

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Divers from Holiday Inn Resort Kandooma Maldives recorded a whale shark sighting last month during a dive at Kandooma Thila in South Malé Atoll.

The encounter took place on 13 April during a guided dive led by Dive Centre Manager Ibrahim Shaan. The whale shark, estimated to be approximately six metres in length, is believed to be a juvenile aged between eight and 15 years. The animal remained in the vicinity of the divers for more than 30 minutes before leaving the area.

Shaan said the whale shark entered the dive site calmly, circled alongside the group and remained present for an extended period. He described the encounter as one of the most notable experiences observed at the site.

Whale shark sightings are considered uncommon in South Malé Atoll, where the species is not typically resident. They are more frequently associated with the South Ari Atoll Marine Protected Area, one of the primary aggregation areas for whale sharks in the country.

The Maldives is regarded as a key destination for whale shark encounters due to environmental conditions including warm waters, nutrient-rich currents and seasonal plankton blooms. Whale sharks are filter feeders and migrate across large distances, often following food sources.

The sighting at Kandooma Thila is understood to be linked to broader migratory movement through the atoll system, with the animal potentially following plankton concentrations or feeding opportunities created by ocean currents.

Kandooma Thila is known for its coral-covered structure, current-driven conditions and marine biodiversity, factors which may attract larger pelagic species on a temporary basis.

Following the sighting, the resort has submitted photographs and video footage to the Maldives Whale Shark Research Programme (MWSRP) for potential identification through its national database. Whale sharks can be identified through unique spot patterns located behind the gills and along their flanks.

The MWSRP’s Big Fish Network database has recorded more than 800 individual whale sharks in the Maldives, contributing to long-term research on migration patterns, population dynamics and species health.

Sharon Garrett, Director of Marketing and Sustainability at the resort, said the data collected would support ongoing research and conservation efforts. She noted that such information contributes to understanding seasonal movement patterns, assessing environmental conditions and informing marine protection measures.

The resort has also reiterated the importance of responsible interaction with marine wildlife. Recommended practices include maintaining distance, avoiding physical contact, refraining from flash photography and ensuring appropriate buoyancy control.

Boat strike incidents remain a recognised threat to whale sharks in Maldivian waters, highlighting the need for careful vessel operation in areas where marine life is present.

Holiday Inn Resort Kandooma Maldives is located approximately 45 minutes by speedboat from Velana International Airport and provides access to multiple dive sites in South Malé Atoll. The resort also operates a Dive Free programme, offering up to two complimentary dives per day for certified divers staying a minimum of three nights.

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