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Diving During the Maldivian Monsoons

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By: Harvey Edwards

Maldives Promotion House – The seasons in the Maldives are dictated by wind direction. While we call them monsoons, to many people that also has connotations of rain and storms.

The Maldives has two main wind directions or ‘monsoons’. The Iruvai Monsoon comes from the NE, which is the direction of the Indian subcontinent and is generally dry and settled, as it passes over a large land area, and relatively small water. The Iruvai is said to start on December 10th, and runs for approximately 4 months until April 7th.

From mid-April the wind tends to come from the SW, picking up a lot of moisture as it moves over the Indian Ocean. Known as the Hulhangu monsoon, this monsoon actually started in India. As the air starts to warm up over the Indian sub-continent (North-hemisphere summer), the air mass rises sharply and there is a rush of wind to replace it, and as it is coming from the SW (moisture-laden ocean) it brings in the rain. Winds in the Maldives are generally at their strongest in May and the rain begins to fall. The Hulhangu monsoon is known as the wet monsoon because of this. This monsoon runs for approximately 6 months.

We must also take into account the changeover period between the monsoons. The wind can change frequently during this time. Just like an ‘Indian summer’ in other countries, these weather patterns change from year to year, but are fairly consistent in the long run. Four months for the Iruvai, six months for the Hulhangu and two months for the changeover period.

 

The Maldivian Nakaiy Calendar

Approximate Date Nakaiy Approximate Description
Dec. 10 – Dec. 22 MULA strong winds, rough seas
Dec. 23 – Jan. 05 FURAHALHA strong north-easterly winds, rough seas
Jan. 06 – Jan. 18 UTHURAHALHA clear blue skies, strong winds, rough seas
Jan. 19 – Jan. 31 HUVAN calm seas, blue skies
Feb. 01 – Feb. 13 DHINASHA north-easterly winds, moderate seas, plenty of sunshine
Feb. 14 – Feb. 26 HIYAVIHA seas are calm, days and and nights are hot
Feb. 27 – Mar. 11 FURABADHURUVA frequent, short, sharp bursts of thunder and lightning
Mar. 12 – Mar. 25 FUSBADHURUVA usually clear blue skies
Mar. 26 – Apr. 07 REYVA if storm occur they may be severe
Apr. 08 – Apr. 21 ASSIDHA begins with storm, then becomes hot and dry
Apr. 22 – May 05 BURUNU begins with a storm and strong winds, then becomes calm
May 06 – May 19 KETHI dark clouds, frequent rains
May 20 – Jun. 02 ROANU storms, strong winds and rough seas
Jun. 03 – Jun. 16 MIYAHELIA storms, rough seas and strong westerly winds
Jun. 17 – Jun. 30 ADHA south-westerly winds and light rain
Jul. 01 – Jul. 14 FUNOAS storms, rough seas, frequent sudden gales
Jul. 15 – Jul. 28 FUS wet and overcast
Jul. 29 – Aug. 10 AHULIA less frequent storms, calmer days
Aug. 11 – Aug. 23 MAA generally calm
Aug. 24 – Sep. 06 FURA isolated showers, usually dry with light north-westerly winds
Sep. 07 – Sep. 20 UTHURA strong north-westerly winds
Sep. 21 – Oct. 03 ATHA generally clear and calm with isolated showers
Oct. 04 – Oct. 17 HITHA light winds, isolated showers
Oct. 18 – Oct. 30 HEY strong winds from all directions
Nov. 01 – Nov. 13 VIHA calm days
Nov. 14 – Nov. 26 NORA light winds, some sun and showers
Nov. 27 – Dec. 09 DOSHA light north-easterly winds

Climate

Take this all with a grain of sand. Large weather patterns affecting the Bay of Bengal for example will have a diluted effect in the Maldives. We are generally considered to be out of the cyclone belt but there have been some nifty storms with cyclones damaging islands forcing evacuations as the islands basically disintegrated due to the persistent pounding of waves in a different direction from normal.

Diving/Staying During the Monsoon

To understand this is to understand the geography of the individual atolls. Have a look at your hotel in regards to East/West.

The Maldives is the lowest country in the world; we’re basically sand banks with a few trees. The outer reef is a barrier reef which does a lot to protect the inner reefs from being smashed to pieces. The coral is usually stunted in the shallows as it gets incredibly strong surge and periodic pounding from waves. Ocean swells of 3 to 5 metres are not uncommon. The surge often gouges out huge grooves in the reef making it look a bit like a tin roof.

If the prevailing wind is coming from the south-west, and your resort is on the south-western side of the atoll you’ll experience the worst of it, or best of it depending on what you want. Villas located over the water can actually shudder when the wind and waves are strong. So it may pay to try to get a room on the eastern side of the island, but then you give up the sunset view. Storms are not common.

For diving this is not necessarily a bad thing. While the weather can be arse, and the winds strong, the wind is also creating the current to a certain extent. While it’s impossible to dive the outside channels when the wind is very strong, the days after can be exhilarating or terrifying to some.

Diving at the western side of the atoll during the SW monsoon you will experience predominantly incoming currents. This means the water is rising from the deep ocean and flowing into the shallow atoll. Viz is generally better, water slightly cooler with better chances to see pelagic. Viz can be 50 metres on a sunny calm day with a good incoming current.

Attention: Can you imagine if it gets worse with 3 to 5 metre swells? Seriously? When good dives go bad here, they can go very very bad, very very quickly. A diver can carry 5 different coloured SMBs, air horns, and mirrors, but if you get pushed outside the atoll in to the ocean when the conditions are like that, you will potentially die simply because the traditional Dhonis (boats) are not stable enough to pick you up. Dhonis are actually very good for the local conditions but most ‘tourist’ Dhonis have a huge wooden sun deck making them very top-heavy. The boat will roll if it attempts to pick you up. Please don’t kid yourself about your abilities to handle yourselves when things go wrong. The ocean is like any dramatic outdoor environment such as a desert, mountain, jungle etc. and conditions change. But these kinds of situations are exceptionally rare and dive centres in Maldives will avoid diving in such situations. 

Diving at the eastern side of the atoll at this time you will experience predominantly outgoing current. The viz is generally worse, let’s say 12 to 15 metres. Lots of plankton, lots of fish and better chances to see mantas and whale sharks. The currents this time are going from shallow to deep water. When the currents are strong, it tends to drop at the end of the atoll and so caution must be taken here as well. Viz is poorer, you’re lower on air/deco at the end of the dive, a bad time to start equalising your ears.

Resort/Liveaboard

I have never worked on a liveaboard or safari boat. Resorts are varied in price and service. It all depends on your wants vs. your $$$. The more expensive the resort, the more service you receive in terms of equipment status (assembled/washed), free water, snacks, group size etc.

In a 5* Resort, you will pay approximately USD 100 per dive with rental equipment. Some resorts have Nitrox for free if you are certified. Resorts and diving centres are usually separate entities but they usually match each other in terms of price and service. The DC rents the location from the resort, which rents the location from the island owner. Don’t expect to pay USD 50 per dive if your room costs USD 1000 per night.

The typical schedule is 2 or 3 dives per day. Night dives are usually scheduled once a week but can be arranged depending on whether the DC has their own boats or leases from the island. In this case, the boat crew can be working nights doing supply runs. I suggest tipping boat crew USD 10 each if they change their schedule for you. Three crew per boat is USD 30. Tipping the diving staff is nice but not as important IMO.

5* is not necessarily better for diving. I’ve worked in two 5* and one 4* and dived with another 3*. The best for diving was the 3*, followed by the 4* and surprise, surprise the 5* came last. Many resorts are marketed as spas and retreats and the quality of divers can be a real mixed bag. If you’re on holiday, want to relax and maybe dive an afternoon or 2- that’s great.

If you’re a dedicated diver in a 5* resort it can be tricky as some of the best dives in the Maldives are also the most challenging, not all but some. Some 5* guests complain about having to swim (seriously), but they want the attractions that come with the current. Carrying a reef hook doesn’t mean you don’t have to swim against the current sometimes. So the 5* resort doesn’t go to these spots when the current is strong, sad but true. If you have the money, go private. It’ll cost a bundle but if you can share the costs with other like-minded divers, it’ll be worth it.

For price, you can’t beat the all-inclusive resort. Diving is probably not included, but you’ll save a ton on food and drink costs. The foreign staff will really appreciate any magazines, books etc. Anything really is OK, well maybe not a tatty newspaper, but you get my point. Doesn’t matter which language, most staff speak at least two and know other staff which speaks the language in question. They’ll be stoked and you can save your $$ tips for the Maldivian and especially Bangladeshi crews. Many boat crews are now coming from Bangladesh or Sri Lanka, the captain will be Maldivian. These guys make about USD 150 to 200 per month.

Liveaboards are for the divers who are coming to the Maldives to dive. Price will work out the same as 5* resort based diving, probably cheaper in the long run. You’ll cover more ground and dive more often and if you’re lucky to be diving with like-minded guests, you can pick and choose the sites you’re more interested in. If I was coming on a 10 to 12 day diving vacation holiday, I’d hit the safari boat first and then go to a 4* resort for a few days of R n R afterwards.

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Award-winning Kandooma Maldives launches ultimate scuba diving experience

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Certified divers have the opportunity to take advantage of the ‘Dive into Paradise’ offer at Kandooma Maldives, which was awarded Best Diving Resort in the Maldives at the 2023 TTM Awards. Renowned for its world-class dive sites, including the famous ‘Kandooma Thila’, located just five minutes from the island, the resort provides easy access to some of the best underwater experiences in the region.

The Maldives is globally recognised for its vibrant coral reefs, exhilarating drift dives, and diverse marine life, making it a bucket-list destination for scuba enthusiasts. This exclusive package includes daily dives at 15 premier sites, along with a variety of resort benefits designed to enhance the overall experience.

Package Inclusions:

  • Accommodation on a half-board basis (daily breakfast and dinner at Kandooma Café) based on double occupancy.
  • Up to two group dives per person per day for certified scuba divers.
  • 20% discount on additional dives or excursions to further dive sites.
  • 50% discount on shared return speed boat transfers.
  • Complimentary Wi-Fi in villas and public areas.

Terms & Conditions:

  • A minimum stay of four nights is required.
  • Bookings must be made by 31 May 2025, for stays valid until 20 December 2025.
  • A non-refundable deposit for the first night is required at the time of booking.
  • Cancellation penalties apply after booking confirmation.
  • No diving is permitted on the day of departure (24-hour no-fly time strictly enforced).
  • Unused dives cannot be redeemed for cash or exchanged for other services.
  • Additional charges apply for night dives and selected distant dive sites.

The resort’s PADI 5-Star Dive Centre, Kandooma Dive, is fully equipped to cater to divers of all experience levels. With a fleet of dive boats, experienced instructors, and high-quality diving equipment, guests can explore a range of underwater environments. For those who have not dived in a while, a refresher dive can be booked to help regain confidence before venturing into deeper waters.

“At Kandooma, we are passionate about sharing the wonders of the ocean, and with this new ‘Dive into Paradise’ offer, we invite certified divers to explore some of the most spectacular dive sites in the Maldives,” said Mark Eletr, General Manager of Holiday Inn Resort Kandooma Maldives.

The Kandooma Dive Centre also offers PADI certification courses for those looking to enhance their skills, as well as the PADI Bubblemaker programme, which introduces young adventurers to their first breaths underwater in a safe and fun environment.

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Vaavu Shipwreck: Story in motion

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Shipwrecks have long captured the imagination of adventurers and explorers, evoking tales of mystery, and rebirth beneath the ocean’s surface. Off the southern coast of Keyodhoo in Vaavu Atoll, a hauntingly beautiful shipwreck rests in its final slumber, a vessel transformed into a thriving underwater sanctuary. Just a 20-minute boat ride from Cinnamon Velifushi Maldives, this site has become an unmissable attraction for snorkelers and divers alike.

A ship frozen in time

The origins of the Vaavu Shipwreck remain shrouded in mystery. What is known, however, is that the vessel succumbed to the relentless forces of nature during a massive storm in 2015, coming to rest at a dramatic 140-degree angle in the shallow waters of Kuda Lagoon. Unlike deeper wrecks reserved for experienced divers, this shipwreck is a snorkeler’s dream as its bow emerging from the waters, offers a striking visual from the surface.

Adam Ali, Operations Manager at Dive & Sail, notes, “what makes the Vaavu Shipwreck truly special is that you don’t need to be a scuba diver to experience it. Snorkelers can take in the entire scene from above, with crystal-clear visibility and an ever-changing marine landscape.”

Beneath the waterline, the wreck has transformed into a thriving marine oasis. The captain’s wheelhouse and deck are draped in vibrant table corals, soft corals, and sea anemones, creates a dynamic and colorful habitat. Schools of fish dart between the crevices, while curious eels peek out from rusted openings. Explorers have often commented about how the this wonder is not just a wreck but an evolving ecosystem where marine life flourishes.

Snorkeling in Vaavu Atoll

Vaavu Atoll, often referred to as the ‘untouched paradise’ of the Maldives, is renowned for its unspoiled reefs, remote islands and dive sites. Unlike the bustling atolls closer to Malé, Vaavu offers a sense of seclusion, where the natural world thrives uninterrupted. Its waters are home to an astonishing variety of marine life where you can find graceful manta rays and reef sharks to luminescent plankton that creates a magical bioluminescent display at night.

However, nature continues to shape the ship’s fate. In early 2025, torrential rains and relentless ocean currents altered the wreck’s position, flipping it upside down. While its mast and hull were once familiar landmarks, the ship now lies in a different orientation, revealing new vantage points for exploration. At high tide, portions of the wreck may submerge completely, but at lower tides, snorkelers can still enjoy an immersive view of this ghostly yet vibrant spectacle.

How to experience the Vaavu Shipwreck

Cinnamon Velifushi Maldives offers guided excursions to the Vaavu Shipwreck in collaboration with Dive & Sail, ensuring every snorkeler whether seasoned or first-time, can safely explore this ever-evolving marvel with expert insight. A short speedboat ride from the resort takes you to the wreck, where you can slip into the waters and witness the striking contrast between man-made history and nature’s reclamation.

As you snorkel above, schools of fish will weave through the skeletal remains of the ship, while vibrant corals flourish on its once-steel surface. For those eager to dive deeper, free divers can venture closer, gliding through the wreck’s passageways for an up-close look at this submerged spectacle.

With the shipwreck continuing to change, shifting with the tides and evolving with the reef, one thing remains certain that it will continue to captivate those who seek adventure beneath the waves. The Vaavu Shipwreck isn’t just a site to visit; it’s a story in motion, waiting to be discovered.

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Dive into summer of marine marvels with Simon Lorenz at The Nautilus Maldives

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Immerse yourself in the extraordinary underwater world during Ocean Discovery Week at The Nautilus Maldives, an award-winning ultra-luxury private island hideaway. From 25th to 31st July 2025, this week-long summer experience invites guests to explore the vibrant marine biodiversity of the Baa Atoll UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. More than just a luxury escape, Ocean Discovery Week is an annual celebration of the ocean’s wonders, offering a profound connection to its delicate ecosystems and fostering a deeper commitment to marine conservation.

Nestled near the iconic Hanifaru Bay, The Nautilus provides unparalleled access to over 40 exceptional dive sites teeming with marine life. Bespoke diving and snorkelling adventures promise unforgettable encounters with manta rays, whale sharks, and vibrant coral gardens, creating an oceanic journey of discovery and wonder.

Partnering with Acclaimed Underwater Photographer Simon Lorenz

This year, The Nautilus is thrilled to welcome renowned underwater photographer Simon Lorenz to enrich the Ocean Discovery Week experience. An award-winning marine photographer, speaker, and writer, Simon’s work has graced the covers of leading nature publications worldwide. Beyond aesthetics, his photography serves as a compelling voice for marine conservation.

As a PADI instructor and photo coach, Simon is passionate about guiding divers and photographers in refining their skills. His curated dive expeditions blend rare underwater encounters with hands-on photography training. Simon’s impressive portfolio includes collaborations with CNN, BBC, NatGeo, and marine NGOs such as WWF, the UN, and The Nature Conservancy. A dedicated advocate for shark conservation, he serves on the advisory board of the Hong Kong Shark Foundation, actively fighting for their protection.

During The Nautilus’s Ocean Discovery Week, guests will have the rare opportunity to dive and snorkel alongside Simon, gaining insights into capturing the ocean’s breathtaking beauty while deepening their understanding of the marine ecosystems of the Maldives. His immersive workshops and marine talks, underwater family photography sessions, and guided dives and snorkelling expeditions promise an exclusive perspective on marine life, making this a truly one-of-a-kind experience.

An Ocean-Inspired Celebration Awaits

Beyond the depths, The Nautilus offers an exquisite blend of adventure and tranquillity through an array of water-inspired experiences. Thrill-seekers can embark on exhilarating Jetski, Seabob and E-foil expeditions, set sail on dolphin-watching cruises, or encounter sea turtles on a Hello Turtle adventure. For those seeking tranquillity, Solasta Spa provides serene escapes with sunrise yoga, mindful breathwork, and water sound healing meditation, all set against the soothing symphony of the ocean. Young explorers can take part in the resident marine biologist’s coral planting workshops, Bubble Maker courses, underwater treasure hunts, watercolour art sessions, and creative ocean-inspired projects.

Join The Nautilus’s Ocean Discovery Week, a one-of-a-kind summer festival, where the ocean’s beauty, mystery, and wonder come to life through unforgettable adventures and heartfelt connections to the sea.

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