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On a caravan, with one of the Sahara’s last European explorers

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Climbing into the saddle, he adjusts the scarf protecting his head from the sun and, with a tap on the camel’s back, the caravan sets off.

Thierry Tillet is again off to explore the vast Saharan desert, at the head of a nine-camel convoy with three other riders.

At 68, the Frenchman is one of the last European explorers since the end of the 19th century to dedicate much of his life — 47 years — to crisscrossing the Sahara.

This expedition, which began before the coronavirus epidemic, starts and ends at two desert jewels in central Mauritania.

From Tichitt, the convoy is headed east to Oualata, 300 kilometres (185 miles) away, travelling in single file over a sandy, rocky landscape.

For the first time, Tillet — or Ghabidine, as a Tuareg friend renamed him — is taking journalists along “so that this knowledge reaches the general public”.

Perched on the back of his swaying camel, Tillet wears an old, holey T-shirt and worn sandals.

On-the-ground information from locals is key to Tillet’s preparations before leaving on an expedition. PHOTO: AFP / JOHN WESSELS

With his tousled, white hair and stubbled chin, it’s easy to forget he’s an authority in his field.

For many years he was a member of the anthropology laboratory at France’s National Centre for Scientific Research (CNRS).

He was also professor of prehistoric archaeology at Grenoble University and taught in Chad, Niger and Mali.

Throughout, he would go back and forth to the Sahara.

He has documented Neolithic civilisations, overseen the inventory of Malian archaeological sites and discovered a dinosaur skeleton in the Tenere desert in Niger.

“Sometimes, small fragments of discovered tools contain more information than a dinosaur, even if it’s less spectacular,” Tillet says.

In all its diversity

Exploring the history of the world’s largest expanse of arid land is a hugely diverse venture.

It can range from the forgotten religious centres of Sufi brotherhoods in northern Mali, to the sandstone plateaus in northeastern Chad and prehistoric Saharan settlements in Niger.

But trading his camel for the comfort of an air-conditioned vehicle as his mode of transport isn’t an option for Tillet.

“You’re going at the speed of the camel, and that allows me to observe and spot a number of things on the ground,” he says.

Travelling at a camel’s pace provides a greater chance of spotting artefacts in the sand, Tillet says. PHOTO: AFP / JOHN WESSELS

“In a car I wouldn’t be able to do that, it moves too quickly.”

Each trip brings something new, be it publications in scientific works, “a few stones brought back for research” or photos of objects from the Neolithic era, the last period of the Stone Age.

Currently it’s an 11th-century caravan depot lost in the Mauritanian dunes, the Ma’den Ijafen, that begs to be found.

“It was Theodore (Monod, the late French explorer) who discovered it in 1956,” Tillet says.

“He asked me to go back there.”

For three years now, he has been searching and, on this expedition, wants to ask around among nomadic shepherds.

The revealing winds

Tillet does not consider himself an adventurer or a daredevil.

“Exploration carries with it a fantasy. I’m not trying to discover the unknown, but to discover what exists!” he says.

“That is true scientific exploration.”

In this part of the Sahara, prehistoric artefacts are everywhere, constantly revealed by an omnipresent wind, but indistinguishable to the untrained eye.

“In a continental climate, it’s often necessary to dig… Here, it’s all on the surface.”

For three years, Tillet has been searching for signs of an 11th-century caravan depot, the Ma’den Ijafen, lost in the Mauritanian dunes. PHOTO: AFP / JOHN WESSELS

Without warning, he pulls the reins to stop, on spotting something interesting.

If he doesn’t know what it is, he takes notes and — in his only recourse to 21st-century technology — satellite coordinates using a GPS.

Once home in southwestern France’s Perigord region, he will transfer them onto a map, tirelessly completing what he calls his “spider’s web”.

The hundreds of GPS points are not only a scientific record but suggest the route of his next expedition.

Searching for a bull

Tillet, the son of Parisian bakers, said his love of Africa and archaeology began after hearing stories as a child.

But it was his first university professor who ignited the desire to go and see it for himself, encouraging him to focus on the Sahara.

On his first trip — in Algeria — it rained a lot.

“For someone wanting to study the Sahara, it was a bad start!” he says, laughing.

Tillet’s wife occasionally used to accompany him on his explorations.

But this time, his companions are Ahmadou, Sheih and Ahmed, whom he has known for many years.

Looks, gestures and common phrases in mixed mother tongues make up for any language barriers.

The days are punctuated by the same rituals: a sunrise departure, stops to drink green tea and finding a place where they can make supper before sleeping under the stars as the camels graze.

If he finds something interesting and doesn’t know what it is, he takes notes and GPS satellite coordinates which he then transfers onto a map once he’s back in France. PHOTO: AFP / JOHN WESSELS

After two days, the caravan stops at Akreijit, an archaeological site discovered in 1934 by Monod and partly restored by a French team at the end of the last century.

The foundations of the old buildings are visible again.

European tourists disembark from their 4x4s in a cloud of dust and briskly visit the old town, just last year removed from the “red zones” where the French foreign ministry advises against travel.

Tillet looks for a drawing of a bull on a rock, located during a previous visit.

“It is two metres (6.5 feet) long,” he says. “My GPS point tells me it’s in 22 metres.”

He scans and searches, passing repeatedly through the ruins, but finds nothing.

‘At great risk’

Concerned about kidnappings, the French authorities are not always happy about the caravan’s off-the-radar trips.

“These people are as worrying as they are fascinating, so we have to keep an eye out,” a French diplomat in the sub-region later told AFP.

Three-quarters of the caravan’s route are in areas that travellers are officially advised by the French government to avoid.

The caravan travelled from the former desert jewel of Tichitt to Oualata, 300 kilometres (185 miles) away. PHOTO: AFP / JOHN WESSELS

“Objectively, he sometimes puts himself at great risk,” acknowledged Pierre Touya, president of the Association of Saharans which groups archaeologists, geographers and other enthusiasts.

Still, “he remains rational, does very good research and is supported by local knowledge,” he said.

On-the-ground information from locals is key to Tillet’s preparations before leaving.

By email and phone, he finds out about nomadic tribes’ movements or where there are wells for the animals to drink.

For decades, the region has been buffeted by inter-communal clashes, separatist insurgencies and conflicts between religious groups — and Tillet has often found himself on the front row.

In the 1990s, he met Iyad Ag Ghaly, then a rebel leader and now head of one of the main jihadist coalitions.

He also met French ethnologist Francoise Claustre in Chad before she was kidnapped in 1974 by Hissene Habre’s rebels.

Concerned about kidnappings, the French authorities are not always happy about the caravan’s off-the-radar trips. PHOTO: AFP / JOHN WESSELS

And he has shared mechoui, a meal of slow-roasted lamb, with former Malian president and fellow archaeologist Alpha Oumar Konare.

“As long as I don’t bump into the bastards, it’s all right,” he smiles, talking about the jihadists, who are an escalating threat in the Sahel region.

In 2009, he was forced to hide in the northern Malian town of Kidal.

Alerted to the presence of “likely unfriendly” groups at a time when Tuareg independence rebellions and jihadist groups were emerging, he left at 4:00 am in a pick-up truck, his head down and face hidden.

That same year, he and his camel team were woken in the night by the blinding light of a surveillance drone in the desert of Mali’s Taoudenit region.

The jihadist expansion in the Sahel-Saharan strip has reduced exploration possibilities.

But, according to a source close to the authorities, interviewed in Mauritania’s capital, Nouakchott, a security grid set up a decade ago to counter the emerging jihadist influence is “once again allowing scientists and tourists to come”.

‘So much to document’

It’s day four and, after a cold night, he groans from the pain of an old foot injury as he climbs into the saddle.

But, neither the discomfort nor deteriorating regional security will stop him.

Next year Tillet is planning a more than 1,000-km route in the Sahara, his longest yet. PHOTO: AFP / JOHN WESSELS

This desert is “the place where I feel the best, where you can’t go wrong”, he says.

When he reaches Oualata near the Mali border after what will have been a two-week journey, Tillet plans to relax and drink tea with an old acquaintance.

Even if he didn’t find the elusive caravan depot this time, he’s happy with the information gleaned.

Previously the projects were funded by his former employer, the CNRS, but since retiring in 2012, he pays the several thousand euros needed for the trip himself.

Monod got off his camel for the last time aged 93 and Tillet, a member of the French Society of Explorers, hopes to go on for a long while yet.

“There’s still so much to document,” he says.

For next year he is planning his longest route so far, at more than 1,000 km, back in the Sahara, with its many silences but, as he says, “where it’s never boring”.

Reporting and photos: AFP

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Festivities of Eid Al-Fitr at Bandos Maldives

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Experience the vibrant festivities of Eid Al-Fitr at Bandos Maldives on Wednesday, 10th April 2024. The resort welcomes guests to join in the joyous atmosphere, filled with a lineup of exciting events and experiences designed for everyone.

Start your day with the cherished tradition of Eid Sai at Gallery Restaurant, where families and friends gather for a delightful breakfast and heartfelt greetings. Then, embark on a culinary journey at Sea Breeze, where talented chefs will guide you through the art of making traditional Eid dishes.

As the day unfolds, join us at Huvan Beach for Eid Majaa, an evening filled with beachside celebrations, games, music, and laughter for guests of all ages. Indulge in the rich flavors of Maldivian cuisine at Eid Jaafaiy, a lavish buffet dinner at Gallery Restaurant, reminiscent of local traditions.

End the night with the rhythmic beats of Boduberu at Sand Bar, experiencing the heartbeat of Maldivian culture under the starlit sky. Come together at Bandos Maldives to celebrate the spirit of Eid Al-Fitr and create cherished memories that will last a lifetime.

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Alila Kothaifaru Maldives offers authentic Eid al-Fitr celebrations

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Alila Kothaifaru Maldives invites you to immerse yourself in the rich traditions of Eid al-Fitr, the festival marking the end of Ramadan, in an unforgettable Maldivian extravaganza. Step into a world where indulgence meets local charm as we blend authentic Maldivian culture with high-end experiences for a celebration like no other.

Cooking Delights in the Spice Garden with Local Mamas: Embark on a culinary journey with our local mamas in the vibrant spice gardens of Alila Kothaifaru Maldives. Learn the art of Maldivian cuisine as you prepare traditional dishes infused with local spices and flavors. From succulent seafood to aromatic curries, discover the secrets of Maldivian cooking from those who know it best.

Feast on High-End Food with a Maldivian Twist: Indulge in a lavish Eid feast curated by our talented chefs, showcasing the best of Maldivian cuisine with a modern twist. Savor exquisite dishes crafted from the freshest local ingredients, meticulously prepared to tantalize your taste buds. From delectable seafood specialties to tantalizing desserts, every bite promises to be a culinary delight.

Groove to the Beats of Boduberu Band Tunes: Let the rhythm of Maldivian music sweep you away as the acclaimed Boduberu Band sets the stage on fire with their electrifying tunes. Dance under the stars to the infectious beats of boduberu drums and traditional melodies, and experience the vibrant spirit of Maldivian culture come to life.

Celebrate Eid Like Never Before: At Alila Kothaifaru Maldives, we believe in creating experiences that transcend the ordinary. This Eid al-Fitr, join us as we celebrate in true Maldivian style, surrounded by the beauty of our island paradise. From culinary delights to captivating music, every moment promises to be a celebration like no other. Additionally, guests can partake in adventurous experiences and wellness activities during their stay. Moreover, a special program has been curated for kids, ensuring they have a memorable and enjoyable time throughout the festivities.

Find vast dining choices with Half-Board Special with daily breakfast and dinner at our beachside restaurant. Start your day with a delightful breakfast at Seasalt restaurant, offering a range of delicious options to kickstart your mornings. For dinner, indulge in the culinary delights of Seasalt restaurant, Yakitori bar, or Umami restaurant, where you can enjoy a three-course à la carte menu or themed buffet. Guests also receive a USD 75 food credit per adult to explore other dining venues such as Teppanyaki, The Shack, or Dining Experiences, allowing for a variety of dining experiences during your stay (subject to availability).

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Celebrate ‘Year of the Dragon’ with Jumeirah Maldives Olhahali Island’s Lunar New Year offering

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Welcome the ‘Year of the Dragon’ in style with Jumeirah Maldives Olhahali Island and enjoy a series of exciting events this Lunar New Year. From exceptional culinary experiences to a range of family-friendly activities, there are limited-edition events to suit all guests, running exclusively from Friday 09 to Tuesday 13 February 2024.

For those looking to tantalise their tastebuds, the resort’s ‘Flavours of China’ experience will be sure to delight, offering a culinary journey through the best of Chinese cuisine. Three of Jumeirah Guangzhou’s renowned Chinese head chefs have crafted two set menus – a four-course menu and an eight-course menu – featuring authentic dishes bursting with flavour and colour. For those looking to further elevate their dining experience, a selection of the finest Chinese wines has been carefully curated to perfectly complement each and every dish.

Families heading to the resort to celebrate the Lunar New Year will find plenty to keep the little ones busy, with an exciting variety of seasonal family-friendly events, in addition to the resort’s existing family offering, with over 50 activities available. Whether it’s dragon mask making at MURACA Art Studio or a Chinese lantern release ceremony at Glow, the whole family will love celebrating at Jumeirah Maldives Olhahali Island, with playful activities designed to create last memories for all. When it comes to downtime, the resort’s spacious one-, two-, and three-bedroom villas offer the perfect space for a family retreat, with separate living spaces and bedrooms providing plenty of space to relax in comfort and style.

For guests looking to unwind in between festivities, they can experience various rejuvenating rituals with the resort’s visiting wellness practitioner Dr. Syed Afzal. Offering personalised guided wellness experiences and holistic therapies, including one-to-one pranic healing and traditional Chinese acupuncture sessions, guests can indulge in the perfect fusion of ancient wisdom and modern wellness to ensure a relaxing start to the ‘Year of the Dragon’. Driven by a deep passion for wellbeing, Dr. Syed assists guests with reaching higher levels of relaxation, rejuvenation, and balance in the midst of paradise within the captivating overwater treatment rooms of the Talise Spa.

Marine life lovers will relish the opportunity to head out on a Dolphin Quest, witnessing the beauty of dolphins in their natural habitat, while those who are looking for a more immersive experience can opt for the Ocean Wonders Snorkelling experience. A Sunset Cruise will also set sail on Monday 12 February, giving guests the chance to experience the beautiful Maldivian sunset while sipping on bubbly to the rhythmic beats of traditional Maldivian Bodu Beru drumming.

Surrounded by a breathtaking natural landscape, Jumeirah Maldives Olhahali Island offers a luxurious island escape for travellers looking to get away this Lunar New Year. The resort offers 67 beach and over-water villas, each designed in a contemporary style with their own private rooftop terraces, as well as six restaurants and bars which offer Jumeirah Group’s signature dining experiences and unparalleled views of the Indian Ocean.

Guests looking to explore the festivities in more detail will find the programme here, and can take advantage of up to 30% off their booking with the Jumeirah Escapes offer.

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