Culture
On a caravan, with one of the Sahara’s last European explorers
Climbing into the saddle, he adjusts the scarf protecting his head from the sun and, with a tap on the camel’s back, the caravan sets off.
Thierry Tillet is again off to explore the vast Saharan desert, at the head of a nine-camel convoy with three other riders.
At 68, the Frenchman is one of the last European explorers since the end of the 19th century to dedicate much of his life — 47 years — to crisscrossing the Sahara.
This expedition, which began before the coronavirus epidemic, starts and ends at two desert jewels in central Mauritania.
From Tichitt, the convoy is headed east to Oualata, 300 kilometres (185 miles) away, travelling in single file over a sandy, rocky landscape.
For the first time, Tillet — or Ghabidine, as a Tuareg friend renamed him — is taking journalists along “so that this knowledge reaches the general public”.
Perched on the back of his swaying camel, Tillet wears an old, holey T-shirt and worn sandals.
With his tousled, white hair and stubbled chin, it’s easy to forget he’s an authority in his field.
For many years he was a member of the anthropology laboratory at France’s National Centre for Scientific Research (CNRS).
He was also professor of prehistoric archaeology at Grenoble University and taught in Chad, Niger and Mali.
Throughout, he would go back and forth to the Sahara.
He has documented Neolithic civilisations, overseen the inventory of Malian archaeological sites and discovered a dinosaur skeleton in the Tenere desert in Niger.
“Sometimes, small fragments of discovered tools contain more information than a dinosaur, even if it’s less spectacular,” Tillet says.
In all its diversity
Exploring the history of the world’s largest expanse of arid land is a hugely diverse venture.
It can range from the forgotten religious centres of Sufi brotherhoods in northern Mali, to the sandstone plateaus in northeastern Chad and prehistoric Saharan settlements in Niger.
But trading his camel for the comfort of an air-conditioned vehicle as his mode of transport isn’t an option for Tillet.
“You’re going at the speed of the camel, and that allows me to observe and spot a number of things on the ground,” he says.
“In a car I wouldn’t be able to do that, it moves too quickly.”
Each trip brings something new, be it publications in scientific works, “a few stones brought back for research” or photos of objects from the Neolithic era, the last period of the Stone Age.
Currently it’s an 11th-century caravan depot lost in the Mauritanian dunes, the Ma’den Ijafen, that begs to be found.
“It was Theodore (Monod, the late French explorer) who discovered it in 1956,” Tillet says.
“He asked me to go back there.”
For three years now, he has been searching and, on this expedition, wants to ask around among nomadic shepherds.
The revealing winds
Tillet does not consider himself an adventurer or a daredevil.
“Exploration carries with it a fantasy. I’m not trying to discover the unknown, but to discover what exists!” he says.
“That is true scientific exploration.”
In this part of the Sahara, prehistoric artefacts are everywhere, constantly revealed by an omnipresent wind, but indistinguishable to the untrained eye.
“In a continental climate, it’s often necessary to dig… Here, it’s all on the surface.”
Without warning, he pulls the reins to stop, on spotting something interesting.
If he doesn’t know what it is, he takes notes and — in his only recourse to 21st-century technology — satellite coordinates using a GPS.
Once home in southwestern France’s Perigord region, he will transfer them onto a map, tirelessly completing what he calls his “spider’s web”.
The hundreds of GPS points are not only a scientific record but suggest the route of his next expedition.
Searching for a bull
Tillet, the son of Parisian bakers, said his love of Africa and archaeology began after hearing stories as a child.
But it was his first university professor who ignited the desire to go and see it for himself, encouraging him to focus on the Sahara.
On his first trip — in Algeria — it rained a lot.
“For someone wanting to study the Sahara, it was a bad start!” he says, laughing.
Tillet’s wife occasionally used to accompany him on his explorations.
But this time, his companions are Ahmadou, Sheih and Ahmed, whom he has known for many years.
Looks, gestures and common phrases in mixed mother tongues make up for any language barriers.
The days are punctuated by the same rituals: a sunrise departure, stops to drink green tea and finding a place where they can make supper before sleeping under the stars as the camels graze.
After two days, the caravan stops at Akreijit, an archaeological site discovered in 1934 by Monod and partly restored by a French team at the end of the last century.
The foundations of the old buildings are visible again.
European tourists disembark from their 4x4s in a cloud of dust and briskly visit the old town, just last year removed from the “red zones” where the French foreign ministry advises against travel.
Tillet looks for a drawing of a bull on a rock, located during a previous visit.
“It is two metres (6.5 feet) long,” he says. “My GPS point tells me it’s in 22 metres.”
He scans and searches, passing repeatedly through the ruins, but finds nothing.
‘At great risk’
Concerned about kidnappings, the French authorities are not always happy about the caravan’s off-the-radar trips.
“These people are as worrying as they are fascinating, so we have to keep an eye out,” a French diplomat in the sub-region later told AFP.
Three-quarters of the caravan’s route are in areas that travellers are officially advised by the French government to avoid.
“Objectively, he sometimes puts himself at great risk,” acknowledged Pierre Touya, president of the Association of Saharans which groups archaeologists, geographers and other enthusiasts.
Still, “he remains rational, does very good research and is supported by local knowledge,” he said.
On-the-ground information from locals is key to Tillet’s preparations before leaving.
By email and phone, he finds out about nomadic tribes’ movements or where there are wells for the animals to drink.
For decades, the region has been buffeted by inter-communal clashes, separatist insurgencies and conflicts between religious groups — and Tillet has often found himself on the front row.
In the 1990s, he met Iyad Ag Ghaly, then a rebel leader and now head of one of the main jihadist coalitions.
He also met French ethnologist Francoise Claustre in Chad before she was kidnapped in 1974 by Hissene Habre’s rebels.
And he has shared mechoui, a meal of slow-roasted lamb, with former Malian president and fellow archaeologist Alpha Oumar Konare.
“As long as I don’t bump into the bastards, it’s all right,” he smiles, talking about the jihadists, who are an escalating threat in the Sahel region.
In 2009, he was forced to hide in the northern Malian town of Kidal.
Alerted to the presence of “likely unfriendly” groups at a time when Tuareg independence rebellions and jihadist groups were emerging, he left at 4:00 am in a pick-up truck, his head down and face hidden.
That same year, he and his camel team were woken in the night by the blinding light of a surveillance drone in the desert of Mali’s Taoudenit region.
The jihadist expansion in the Sahel-Saharan strip has reduced exploration possibilities.
But, according to a source close to the authorities, interviewed in Mauritania’s capital, Nouakchott, a security grid set up a decade ago to counter the emerging jihadist influence is “once again allowing scientists and tourists to come”.
‘So much to document’
It’s day four and, after a cold night, he groans from the pain of an old foot injury as he climbs into the saddle.
But, neither the discomfort nor deteriorating regional security will stop him.
This desert is “the place where I feel the best, where you can’t go wrong”, he says.
When he reaches Oualata near the Mali border after what will have been a two-week journey, Tillet plans to relax and drink tea with an old acquaintance.
Even if he didn’t find the elusive caravan depot this time, he’s happy with the information gleaned.
Previously the projects were funded by his former employer, the CNRS, but since retiring in 2012, he pays the several thousand euros needed for the trip himself.
Monod got off his camel for the last time aged 93 and Tillet, a member of the French Society of Explorers, hopes to go on for a long while yet.
“There’s still so much to document,” he says.
For next year he is planning his longest route so far, at more than 1,000 km, back in the Sahara, with its many silences but, as he says, “where it’s never boring”.
Reporting and photos: AFP
Maagiri Hotel is set to celebrate the Independence Day of the Maldives with a series of special dining experiences, inviting guests, families, and the local community to come together and commemorate this significant national occasion.
To mark the celebrations, the hotel will host an Independence Day Special Breakfast Buffet from 24 to 26 July 2026. Guests can enjoy a generous selection of local and international breakfast favourites in a warm and welcoming setting, making it the perfect way to begin the holiday celebrations with family and friends.
The festivities will continue on 26 July 2026 with a Special Maldivian Dinner Buffet at Faru Restaurant. The dinner will feature a variety of authentic Maldivian dishes, carefully prepared by the hotel’s culinary team to showcase the rich flavours and traditions of the Maldives. From local delicacies to beloved national favourites, the buffet offers a memorable dining experience that celebrates the country’s culinary heritage.
Adding a sweet touch to the celebrations, Maagiri Hotel also features a selection of locally crafted artisan ice cream flavours with the support of Iceto, highlighting the creativity of local artisans and celebrating Maldivian craftsmanship through unique, handcrafted treats at the Rooftop Restaurant.
As part of the hotel’s commitment to celebrating national occasions, the Independence Day promotions are designed to bring people together through exceptional food, warm hospitality, and a shared appreciation for Maldivian culture and traditions.
Maagiri Hotel warmly welcomes guests to join the Independence Day celebrations and enjoy a memorable dining experience while honouring the spirit of the nation’s independence.
For reservations and bookings, please call 3318484 / 7228484 or text (Viber) 7228484.
How Sun Siyam Vilu Reef Is Keeping Maldivian Culture Alive: The smell reaches you before anything else: warm coconut oil, faintly sweet, drifting from a low-roofed beach house. Inside, a woman works patiently with her hands, pressing, turning and drawing the oil slowly from the flesh, just as it has been done for generations on these islands. Standing on a tiny coral island in the South Nilandhe Atoll, time seems to lose its importance.
This is Athireege, the cultural heart of Sun Siyam Vilu Reef, part of the Privé Collection within Sun Siyam. It is not a museum, nor a demonstration staged for the camera. It is a living sanctuary where the crafts, rituals and flavours of traditional Maldivian life are practised by hand, by voice and by fire. Here, an immersive cultural journey invites guests to discover the traditions, flavours and stories that continue to shape island life, offering a deeper connection to the Maldives beyond its postcard-perfect beaches.
Once a week, guests are invited to experience Maldivian Roots Day, a journey that reveals the customs, skills and traditions that have shaped island life for generations. Visitors leave with more than memories of turquoise waters they leave with a deeper understanding of the place they have called home, even if only for a few days.
The experience begins with a hands-on coconut oil making class, uncovering traditional crafting techniques first-hand at Athireege. Authenticity is the soul of this space, where traditional island living is brought to life using real, handcrafted tools. Guests can run their fingers over the very techniques that Maldivians have used to sustain island life for centuries whether witnessing the intricate art of palm weaving known as Fangi Vinun, trying their hand at coir rope making, known in Dhivehi as Roanu Veshun or playing traditional mancala style games like Ohvalhu Gondi Kulhun.
As the afternoon softens into evening, pandan-infused tea is served alongside sweet and savoury local delicacies. As daylight fades, stories take their place. History of Maldives, real experiences with island tales and memories of life before tourism are shared aloud, reviving a tradition that once passed history from one generation to the next.
The centre of this cultural journey is the Malaafaih, a magnificent, traditional Maldivian banquet. Translating roughly to “abundance,” the Malaafaih was historically prepared for grand celebrations, weddings, and community gatherings. This carefully curated feast invites guests to gather, share, and experience authentic local flavours in a deeply communal setting, honouring the true spirit of island hospitality.
At Sun Siyam Vilu Reef, the Malaafaih is celebrated both at sunrise, as a traditional breakfast, and beneath the stars as an evening feast. The menu changes with the season and the day’s catch, but its spirit remains the same, dishes are shared, conversations unfold naturally, and strangers often leave the table feeling like friends. Whether beginning the day with a traditional breakfast or gathering beneath the stars for an evening feast, guests can completely immerse themselves in this rare culinary ritual, tailored exclusively to their stay.
At a time when travellers increasingly seek meaningful connections with the places they visit, Athireege offers something becoming increasingly rare: traditions that are still lived rather than performed. Long after the final stories have been told and the feast has ended, it is often these moments not simply the beaches or the villas that guests remember most. At Sun Siyam Vilu Reef, space has always been made for the culture that made these islands worth travelling to in the first place.
To explore or to book your stay, visit Sun Siyam Vilu Reef. For exclusive offers, join Siyam Rewards and book direct at sunsiyam.com.
Oaga Art Resort has successfully concluded The Shape of Return, a contemporary Maldivian art exhibition presented in collaboration with Oevaali Art Gallery, Singapore. Running from 21 June to 5 July 2026, the exhibition brought together the works of 15 Maldivian artists, introducing international audiences to stories of identity, memory, belonging and cultural heritage through contemporary visual art.
The collaboration between Oaga Art Resort and Oevaali Art Gallery reflects a shared commitment to creating meaningful platforms for Maldivian artists beyond the country’s shores. Housed within Oevaali Art Gallery’s intimate space dedicated to Maldivian fine art, The Shape of Return transformed the gallery into a window into the Maldives, inviting visitors to experience narratives that extend far beyond the destination’s familiar image of turquoise waters and white sand beaches.
Originally commissioned as part of Maldives; A Simple Story, the artworks were first created as individual installations within Oaga Art Resort’s Veyoge Gallery Villas, where each space was designed as a living narrative inspired by Maldivian culture and everyday life. Their presentation in Singapore brought these dispersed works together for the first time, forming a collective archive of contemporary Maldivian artistic expression within an international gallery setting.
The exhibition formed part of Oaga Art Resort’s broader engagement at ILTM Asia Pacific Singapore, where the resort representatives connected with luxury travel advisors and industry partners from across the region. Extending beyond the trade environment, Oaga hosted private viewings at Oevaali Art Gallery, offering selected partners a deeper cultural context to the resort’s creative philosophy and hospitality narrative. These sessions created a more immersive layer of engagement, bridging conversations initiated at ILTM with the artistic foundations of the resort experience.
Alongside the exhibition, visitors also experienced a miniature installation inspired by Oaga’s Veyoge Gallery Villas, offering visitors a scaled glimpse into the environments where the artworks originate. Guests were also invited to participate in a Veyoge giveaway, extending the exhibition beyond the gallery space while introducing audiences to the artistic experiences that await at Oaga Art Resort.
Bringing together artists from diverse creative disciplines, The Shape of Return showcased painting, mixed media, illustration and visual storytelling that explored the connections between people, place and memory while celebrating the evolving narratives of contemporary Maldivian creators.
“We have always envisioned Oaga as more than just a beach resort – it is an art platform; a destination where people can connect with the Maldives through creative and whimsical storytelling. It has been a joy to bring a glimpse of this to a global stage through the work of 15 local artists, and deeply moving to witness the connections formed through this exhibition. This is a milestone not just for Oaga, but for Maldivian contemporary art.” said Nawaila Nashid, Director of Brand Experience of Oaga Art Resort.
Featured Maldivian artists include Alwan Ibrahim, Hawwa Lahfa, Hidhana Latheef, Zifla Ibrahim, Zuha Bari, Hassan Niyaz, Aishath Shuaila, Mariyam Halym, Baburu Akuru x Jille, Dhyna Shaheem, Emaz Shakoor, Aminath Fathina, Afzal Shaafiu (Afu), Mohamed Hisan and Aima Musthafa.
Concluding on 5 July 2026, The Shape of Return marks another milestone in Oaga Art Resort’s continued mission to create meaningful opportunities for Maldivian artists while fostering international appreciation for the country’s contemporary creative voices through art, storytelling and cultural exchange.
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