Culture
On a caravan, with one of the Sahara’s last European explorers
Climbing into the saddle, he adjusts the scarf protecting his head from the sun and, with a tap on the camel’s back, the caravan sets off.
Thierry Tillet is again off to explore the vast Saharan desert, at the head of a nine-camel convoy with three other riders.
At 68, the Frenchman is one of the last European explorers since the end of the 19th century to dedicate much of his life — 47 years — to crisscrossing the Sahara.
This expedition, which began before the coronavirus epidemic, starts and ends at two desert jewels in central Mauritania.
From Tichitt, the convoy is headed east to Oualata, 300 kilometres (185 miles) away, travelling in single file over a sandy, rocky landscape.
For the first time, Tillet — or Ghabidine, as a Tuareg friend renamed him — is taking journalists along “so that this knowledge reaches the general public”.
Perched on the back of his swaying camel, Tillet wears an old, holey T-shirt and worn sandals.
With his tousled, white hair and stubbled chin, it’s easy to forget he’s an authority in his field.
For many years he was a member of the anthropology laboratory at France’s National Centre for Scientific Research (CNRS).
He was also professor of prehistoric archaeology at Grenoble University and taught in Chad, Niger and Mali.
Throughout, he would go back and forth to the Sahara.
He has documented Neolithic civilisations, overseen the inventory of Malian archaeological sites and discovered a dinosaur skeleton in the Tenere desert in Niger.
“Sometimes, small fragments of discovered tools contain more information than a dinosaur, even if it’s less spectacular,” Tillet says.
In all its diversity
Exploring the history of the world’s largest expanse of arid land is a hugely diverse venture.
It can range from the forgotten religious centres of Sufi brotherhoods in northern Mali, to the sandstone plateaus in northeastern Chad and prehistoric Saharan settlements in Niger.
But trading his camel for the comfort of an air-conditioned vehicle as his mode of transport isn’t an option for Tillet.
“You’re going at the speed of the camel, and that allows me to observe and spot a number of things on the ground,” he says.
“In a car I wouldn’t be able to do that, it moves too quickly.”
Each trip brings something new, be it publications in scientific works, “a few stones brought back for research” or photos of objects from the Neolithic era, the last period of the Stone Age.
Currently it’s an 11th-century caravan depot lost in the Mauritanian dunes, the Ma’den Ijafen, that begs to be found.
“It was Theodore (Monod, the late French explorer) who discovered it in 1956,” Tillet says.
“He asked me to go back there.”
For three years now, he has been searching and, on this expedition, wants to ask around among nomadic shepherds.
The revealing winds
Tillet does not consider himself an adventurer or a daredevil.
“Exploration carries with it a fantasy. I’m not trying to discover the unknown, but to discover what exists!” he says.
“That is true scientific exploration.”
In this part of the Sahara, prehistoric artefacts are everywhere, constantly revealed by an omnipresent wind, but indistinguishable to the untrained eye.
“In a continental climate, it’s often necessary to dig… Here, it’s all on the surface.”
Without warning, he pulls the reins to stop, on spotting something interesting.
If he doesn’t know what it is, he takes notes and — in his only recourse to 21st-century technology — satellite coordinates using a GPS.
Once home in southwestern France’s Perigord region, he will transfer them onto a map, tirelessly completing what he calls his “spider’s web”.
The hundreds of GPS points are not only a scientific record but suggest the route of his next expedition.
Searching for a bull
Tillet, the son of Parisian bakers, said his love of Africa and archaeology began after hearing stories as a child.
But it was his first university professor who ignited the desire to go and see it for himself, encouraging him to focus on the Sahara.
On his first trip — in Algeria — it rained a lot.
“For someone wanting to study the Sahara, it was a bad start!” he says, laughing.
Tillet’s wife occasionally used to accompany him on his explorations.
But this time, his companions are Ahmadou, Sheih and Ahmed, whom he has known for many years.
Looks, gestures and common phrases in mixed mother tongues make up for any language barriers.
The days are punctuated by the same rituals: a sunrise departure, stops to drink green tea and finding a place where they can make supper before sleeping under the stars as the camels graze.
After two days, the caravan stops at Akreijit, an archaeological site discovered in 1934 by Monod and partly restored by a French team at the end of the last century.
The foundations of the old buildings are visible again.
European tourists disembark from their 4x4s in a cloud of dust and briskly visit the old town, just last year removed from the “red zones” where the French foreign ministry advises against travel.
Tillet looks for a drawing of a bull on a rock, located during a previous visit.
“It is two metres (6.5 feet) long,” he says. “My GPS point tells me it’s in 22 metres.”
He scans and searches, passing repeatedly through the ruins, but finds nothing.
‘At great risk’
Concerned about kidnappings, the French authorities are not always happy about the caravan’s off-the-radar trips.
“These people are as worrying as they are fascinating, so we have to keep an eye out,” a French diplomat in the sub-region later told AFP.
Three-quarters of the caravan’s route are in areas that travellers are officially advised by the French government to avoid.
“Objectively, he sometimes puts himself at great risk,” acknowledged Pierre Touya, president of the Association of Saharans which groups archaeologists, geographers and other enthusiasts.
Still, “he remains rational, does very good research and is supported by local knowledge,” he said.
On-the-ground information from locals is key to Tillet’s preparations before leaving.
By email and phone, he finds out about nomadic tribes’ movements or where there are wells for the animals to drink.
For decades, the region has been buffeted by inter-communal clashes, separatist insurgencies and conflicts between religious groups — and Tillet has often found himself on the front row.
In the 1990s, he met Iyad Ag Ghaly, then a rebel leader and now head of one of the main jihadist coalitions.
He also met French ethnologist Francoise Claustre in Chad before she was kidnapped in 1974 by Hissene Habre’s rebels.
And he has shared mechoui, a meal of slow-roasted lamb, with former Malian president and fellow archaeologist Alpha Oumar Konare.
“As long as I don’t bump into the bastards, it’s all right,” he smiles, talking about the jihadists, who are an escalating threat in the Sahel region.
In 2009, he was forced to hide in the northern Malian town of Kidal.
Alerted to the presence of “likely unfriendly” groups at a time when Tuareg independence rebellions and jihadist groups were emerging, he left at 4:00 am in a pick-up truck, his head down and face hidden.
That same year, he and his camel team were woken in the night by the blinding light of a surveillance drone in the desert of Mali’s Taoudenit region.
The jihadist expansion in the Sahel-Saharan strip has reduced exploration possibilities.
But, according to a source close to the authorities, interviewed in Mauritania’s capital, Nouakchott, a security grid set up a decade ago to counter the emerging jihadist influence is “once again allowing scientists and tourists to come”.
‘So much to document’
It’s day four and, after a cold night, he groans from the pain of an old foot injury as he climbs into the saddle.
But, neither the discomfort nor deteriorating regional security will stop him.
This desert is “the place where I feel the best, where you can’t go wrong”, he says.
When he reaches Oualata near the Mali border after what will have been a two-week journey, Tillet plans to relax and drink tea with an old acquaintance.
Even if he didn’t find the elusive caravan depot this time, he’s happy with the information gleaned.
Previously the projects were funded by his former employer, the CNRS, but since retiring in 2012, he pays the several thousand euros needed for the trip himself.
Monod got off his camel for the last time aged 93 and Tillet, a member of the French Society of Explorers, hopes to go on for a long while yet.
“There’s still so much to document,” he says.
For next year he is planning his longest route so far, at more than 1,000 km, back in the Sahara, with its many silences but, as he says, “where it’s never boring”.
Reporting and photos: AFP
The stunning all-natural resort paradise, JA Manafaru, invites guests to immerse themselves in the rich culture of the Maldives during their Maldivian Cultural Week.
Located in Haa Alifu Atoll, they are proud to be “the Real Maldives and are promoting this by holding this weeklong event, held from July 22nd to July 26th, 2024.
This exciting week coincides with Maldives’ Independence Day and offers a unique opportunity to experience the island nation’s vibrant traditions and customs.
The festivities begin on July 22nd with a captivating tour of the resort’s cultural exhibit, Magey Hiyaa.
Excitement builds on July 23rd as the celebration continues with an unforgettable Maldivian night, where guests savour a traditional feast called served “Malaafaiy” style at Kakuni restaurant, followed by a mesmerising Boduberu performance.
On July 25th, a captivating Maldivian Cooking Class led by the talented Executive Chef, Chef Moosa Nazeeh, takes place at Kakuni. Guests can learn the secrets behind the country’s most beloved dishes.
The week culminates on July 26th, Maldives Independence Day, with a traditional flag-raising ceremony on the beach. Guests can join the national pride as the Maldivian National Anthem fills the air.
The celebrations conclude with a delightful Maldivian-themed afternoon tea featuring local delicacies served at the Veli Bar. As guests savour the flavours, they are enthralled by the rhythmic beats of another Boduberu performance.
“Maldivian Cultural Week is a fantastic opportunity for our guests to discover the heart and soul of the Maldives,” says Jason Kruse, General Manager at JA Manafaru. “We are thrilled to offer this immersive experience that allows guests to connect with the rich culture and traditions of our beautiful island nation.”
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Anantara Kihavah Maldives Villas has announced the launch of “Journey Through Maldivian Heritage,” an immersive cultural experience that aims to introduce the luxury resort’s guests to a variety of local customs and artisanal activities designed to celebrate the heritage and traditions of the Maldives.
Available every Thursday, this all-day initiative offers guests the opportunity to immerse themselves fully in local heritage by making a genuine connection to the Maldivian people and their culture. From the moment guests wake up, they are treated to a wide selection of authentic Maldivian specialities at breakfast. Then as they stroll around the island, guests will see the team proudly dressed in traditional Maldivian attire. With guidance from the resort’s dedicated team and local artisans, guests will experience traditional corals, local cuisine, and cultural activities throughout the day.
Suitable for guests of all ages, the many engaging artisanal activities on offer include a Palm Leaf Weaving Workshop, where guests can learn traditional weaving techniques and create their own beautiful palm leaf corals such as ornaments, baskets, hats, and more. For those seeking a musical experience, the Bodu Beru Drum Class offers guests an opportunity to immerse themselves in the rhythm and movement of traditional Maldivian drumming and dance. Culinary explorers can participate in a hands-on Maldivian Cooking Class with a local master chef as he reveals the secrets of Maldivian cuisine.
As part of the fully immersive adventure, the Local Island Visit encourages guests to explore a nearby island and experience the local way of life up close. The Traditional Maldivian Sunset Fishing activity provides guests with an opportunity to try their hand at fishing using traditional methods against the backdrop of a stunning sunset. The Fishing Net Making Class, led by local experts, teaches the skill of making fishing nets that has been handed down across multiple generations. For the more active fun seekers, there is an unmissable opportunity to join in a Bashi Game, a traditional Maldivian sport which is similar to volleyball.
As the sun sets, the team and guests will gather for the mesmerising Bodu Beru Sundowner Ritual. Celebrating the end of the day, the ceremony begins with the lighting of torches before the rhythmic beats of a Maldivian bodu beru performance by the team combine to create an enchanting and unforgettable experience.
Anantara Kihavah is committed to offering guests an authentic and immersive experience that captures the heart and soul of the Maldives. Through these cultural activities, the resort aims to create lasting memories and a deeper appreciation for Maldivian heritage.
It was ‘honeymoon season’ in Suez. Sultan Haji Imadudeen was reigning on a throne of love in Egypt. But back home, those were darker times, as Maldives continued to borrow from Bohra merchants of Mumbai. After all, the wedding expenses of the monarch had to be paid by the state.
Imadudeen has appointed his younger brother, Dhoshee Manippulhu of Maandhooge, as the regent to take care of the state’s affairs, but it was Prince Ibrahim Dhoshimeynakilegefaan of Athireege who ruled. Prince Ibrahim’s son, Abdul Majeed Didi of Athireege, took charge of stabilising the nation.
Backed by the British masters and business elites in Male’, Abdul Majeed Didi began hatching a secret plan. Finally, by the early hours of March 10, 1910, onlookers could understand that something was happening in Muleege. Beeru Mohamed Fulhu, who was at the Friday Mosque, saw the door being opened and Mohamed Shamsudeen being escorted out by his brother-in-law Abdul Majeed Didi and Sayyid Kilegefaanu, also known as Khatheeb Seedhi. The two men accompanied Shamshudeen to Boduganduvaru, the royal palace, and placed him on the throne as Sultan Shamsudeen Iskandhar, Al-Salitc. As Shamsudeen was the brother-in-law of both men, the aim behind the plan could mean more than just stabilising the nation; there might have been personal motives and interests.
After appointing Shamsudeen the sultan, Khatheeb Seedhi told him that no one was ever going to challenge his reign. He said that Shamshudeen was not going to leave the throne unless he wished to do so.
Khatheeb Sidi’s saying became true, as Shamsudeen remained in power for the next 31 years, six months and 28 days. That was until he left behind all the privileges of a king for the sake of his beloved son Hassan Izzuddeen, for whom he built Henveyru Ganduvaru or Muleeage from where he started his journey to become the sultan at one midnight. As the famous public speaker and poet Ibrahim Shihab later said, the sultan abdicated for the only son he ever had.
Muleeage, the presidential palace which is now 105 years old, was originally built for Shamsudeen’s son and the then Crown Prince Hassan Izzudeen. The palace was originally named as Henveyru Ganduvaru. It was a symbol of the king’s love for his son.
The origin of this address goes back to the era of the heroic Sultan Hassan Izzudeen, also known as Dhonbandaarain. This plot of land was first used to build a thatch hut when Muhammad Manik of Mulee shifted his family to the capital city. The house was later inherited by Dhonbandaarain and then by Ibrahim Noorahdeen and then by his son Shamsudeen. Hassan Izzudeen was born to Shamsudeen and Sithi Didi, daughter of Bodu Sidi of Kalhuhurage.
When Izzudeen was studying in Ceylon, Shamsudeen decided to build the house before his son returned home. Shamsudeen decided to build it as a palace for the crown prince.
Fully funded by state coffers, the project was commissioned in 1914. Ahmed Dhoshimeyna Kiligefaanu of Athireege was assigned as the project manager. Architects and builders were brought from Ceylon. Architecture and the design was that of the Victorian era with a touch of colonial architectural design. Furniture too was imported from Ceylon. Few transoms were designed by Easa Mohamed Fulhu from the island of Kela in Haa Alif Atoll.
The palace was opened on December 7, 1919, with a special Mauloodh, a cultural prayer.
Izzudeen came back from Ceylon after his education to live in the palace as “Henveyru Ganduvaru Manippulhu”. He lived with privileges that don’t match with that of any other prince. As he was a highly-skilled musician, the palace became a theatre for music. Izzudeen sang with his beautiful voice whilst also playing harmonium. Boys of his dance group, widely known as “Nashaa Party” danced to his music, dressed as ladies. Boduberu too was part of the fun at the palace. It was full on partying till midnight on most days. It is said that the novel, Dhonthuhkalaage Gellunu Furaavaru (lost teenage of Dhonthuhkala), written by Muhammad Ismail Didi of Meerubahuruge, was based on an incident that happened at the palace.
The elite of Athireege took all that as inappropriate for a crown prince. Their disapproval grew and Izzudeen was considered as someone who is ineligible for the throne. The first written constitution in the history of Maldives was passed as a result. It was written in that constitution that the sultanate will only go to a grandson of Dhonbandarain, effectively removing Izzudeen from the royal inheritance path.
But the constitution was later received by the people as a burden, as new laws were introduced to a population that was not aware of such rules. It made their life miserable.
“We can’t bear this anymore,” they said, as they gathered at the Gulhakulhey Fasgandu, an open area just next to the headquarters of the army, and tore apart the document. They even attempted to bring out some ministers to be dealt with by the mob.
The country then saw increased hostile actions against the government from Izzudeen who tried to take over.
Prime Minister Hassan Fareed issued orders to arrest Izzudeen’s allies. Izzudeen went to Bodubandeyrige, then headquarters of security forces, in person to try save his allies. Shamsudeen left the throne to follow.
The prime minister, who was paving way for the change in government, used this as an opportunity to overthrow Shamsudeen. The latter was banished to Fuvahmulah, in the far south, together with his son Izzudeen.
Izzudeen died on the island after a short ailment, whilst Shamsudeen was brought back to Male’ as his health deteriorated. He died shortly thereafter. Henveyru Ganduvaru was deserted after that.
All the palaces except that of the sultan were later downgraded and Henveyru Ganduvaru became Muleeage, taking the name of the first house built at the address.
Muleeage was used for several purposes for the next 80 years before becoming the presidential palace in 1953. From 1942 to 1947, it was used to house the ministries of home affairs and defence, and the office of the head of intelligence. It also served as the headquarters of the first newspaper in the country, Sarukaaruge Khabaru.
With the first republic that came into being in 1953, Muleeage became the presidential palace, serving as the official residence of Mohamed Ameen Didi, the first president.
As the monarchy was reinstated after overthrowing Ameen and abolishing the republic in a coup, Muleeage became the office of the prime minister. Ibrahim Famuladeyrikiligefaan and Ibrahim Nasir were prime ministers who used the office. At one point during their administrations, Muleeage also housed the ministry of defence.
Presidential palace and several ministries at some point, Muleeage has been in use ever since.
Apart from this, several high profile guests of the state stayed there during their visits. Late Queen Elizabeth and her late husband, The Duke of Edinburgh Prince Philips were amongst those.
Although Ibrahim Nasir, as the first president of the second republic, declared Muleeage as the presidential palace again in 1970, he didn’t use it as such. His successor, Maumoon Abdul Gayoom, was the first president to formally use it as his official residence. He stayed there from 1988 to 1994, before moving to Theemuge, a newly built presidential palace which later became the Supreme Court.
The first Supreme Court, which was the result of the present day constitution, was temporarily housed in Muleeage in 2008. Then came President Mohamed Nasheed who chose to make it the presidential palace yet again. It was also used as the offices of a national inquiry commission, which was setup to investigate the events surrounding Nasheed’s early departure in 2012, before becoming the presidential palace again.
In the century that has passed since Muleeage was built in its current design, it has witnessed numerous historical events in the country. It witnessed the declaration of the first republic and the reinstating of the monarchy. It hosted heads of states as well as ministers from different parts of the world. Indian Prime Minister Rajiv Gandi was one amongst them to be remembered.
Been a place for all that, the status of Muleeage is much more important in our history; it was the childhood home of Hassan Izzudeen, Dhonbandaarain, the heroic sultan who freed Maldives from the short-lived rule of the Malabari invaders, also known as “Holhin”. This was the place from where he came out for his battle with the flag of freedom flying over his head.
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