Island Goers
Hello from a Barefoot Pilot
Editor’s note: After we at Maldives Promotion House met Rob McIntyre via our Facebook page, we requested him to share his experience of Maldives with us. The following article is his response to our request. It presents Maldives from the perspective of a barefoot pilot.
Rob McIntyre for Maldives Promotion House – I am honoured to have been asked to contribute to this amazing site! With this post I am going to write a little bit about myself and my impressions of this amazing country that straddles the equator.
I am a seaplane pilot here flying barefoot for Maldivian Air Taxi. An amazing job to be certain! I have been flying for 21 years now, having flown all over North America, Africa and the Maldives. I spent 5 years flying Northern Canada as well.
I was Captain at one of the Air Canada regional airlines for close to 9 years. I grew dissatisfied with the world of flying wheels and major airlines. With this in mind I made an abrupt turn and gave it all up to revisit seaplane flying.
Throughout the world of seaplane flying the Twin Otter is the king and flying barefoot in the Maldives is known to all who fly seaplane for a living! At Maldivian Air Taxi the minimum requirements for a Captain are 3,500 hours of flying experience which must include 1000 hours of seaplane, 250 hours of experience in the Twin Otter along with an Airline Transport Pilots Licence.
As for myself, I have over 14,000 hours of total flying experience which includes 3000 hours of seaplane, 2,000 hours of flying the Twin Otter and as a side note I am type rated on the Dash 8 along with the CL65 Regional Jet.
I am not just a pilot though! I have great many interests and over the last few years my wife, Sophie, and I have been working hard on our dream of having a professional photography studio. We are passionate photographers and we are realizing this dream! For my part I have been honing my skills as a photographer.
Combined with the tremendous opportunity that my flying career has presented I am putting together quite a portfolio of Maldives images. If I had to guess I would say that I have easily accumulated over 10,000 images in this past year alone! I never leave home without my camera in hand and as result I tend to see the world slow down around me. I savour moments that others may miss, and then record them so that they may see for themselves what I see!
The Maldives is a truly amazing place to be, especially as a photographer! The landscape is truly amazing and unique but this is not the only thing that is worth the attention. The people are really fascinating, friendly and so utterly photogenic! I have a blog that I feel reflects the variety of photographic inspiration that is to be found in the Maldives.
My job as a seaplane pilot here provides me with unique access to some of the most amazing resorts I have ever seen, along with views that are without a doubt nothing short of spectacular. As we normally work from dawn until dusk I have been able to witness sunrises and sunsets that once photographed and printed look to be more like paintings rather than simple photographs.
The geography of the Maldives, as I have mentioned in a few of my blog posts, is really something to beheld. On the days when the visibility is unlimited and the seas are calm I am mesmerized by the symmetrical layout of the lagoons that surround each Atoll. As I fly past the Northern edge of North Ari Atoll and look south, it is as if they go on forever, one by one as if they were placed there with purpose in mind.
I often think on those days that the people I have aboard feeling the same thing as I do, when they stare out the window gazing upon the majesty that is the Maldives. To be certain it is not only the North and South Ari Atoll that offer this sight. Every atoll group I witness has its own unique features that quite honestly can take even the most seasoned traveller’s breath away.
As we start to descend, in preparation for the approach, it is certainly not uncommon to see Manta Rays smoothly swimming through the clear blue water, Dolphins frolicking, Tuna chasing down their prey, the odd String Ray gliding along the sandy beaches and if you are really lucky maybe even a Whale Shark or two! What other place can offer such scenery, few if any!
Along with the views I also get to meet many local people and have at times been invited into homes to sit with some of the kindest and most gracious hosts I have ever met. I have thought to myself it would be a wonderful thing for the islands to somehow offer a bread and breakfast style accommodation for those travellers looking to get off the beaten path and discover another facet of the Maldives.
I think there is a natural disposition in many of the people here to offer a warm, friendly environment to the traveller that seeks to learn more about the rich heritage that the people of the Maldives have to offer.
If it is water sports you are after then you have to come for a visit! Some of the nicest surf breaks in the world are here and some of them as close as a 45 minute Dhoni ride from the Capital City Malé. If your game is Kite Surfing then you are also in the right spot as on most days there is a steady 10 to 15 knot breeze and if you are really skilled there are the days during Monsoon season it cranks up and “air time” is more than available!
Of course the diving is a big draw as well and with so many spots it is hard to go wrong. Every single resort I visit has a dive centre and easy access to outstanding reefs with abundant marine life!
The Maldives is nothing short of amazing in so many respects!
Signing off for now, Rob McIntyre, one of the barefoot pilots!
About the Author: Rob McIntyre is a barefoot pilot working in Maldives. He is also a keen photographer and runs a blog to share his experience of Maldives. To see the profound moments he has captured of his life in Maldives visit him at www.barefootpilot.blogspot.com. We at Maldives Promotion House appreciate and support his work. Moreover we hope that his dreams come true. Good luck Rob McIntyre.
Island Goers
Mouni Roy’s enchanting birthday celebration in Maldives at Coco Bodu Hithi
Bollywood Actor Mouni Roy recently celebrated her 39th birthday in the most picturesque way possible, surrounded by the serene beauty of the Maldives. Accompanied by her husband, Suraj Nambiar, and close friends, Mouni’s birthday festivities were nothing short of magical. She shared glimpses of her celebration on Instagram on October 1, giving her fans a peek into her tropical retreat at the luxurious Coco Bodu Hithi resort.
A Tropical Birthday Bash
Mouni Roy has been soaking up the sun and enjoying the breathtaking views of the Maldives. Her latest Instagram updates have left fans in awe, showcasing her stunning vacation style. In one of her posts, Mouni looks absolutely ravishing in a pink bikini paired with a flowy white skirt. Posing effortlessly on a chair, she exudes confidence and charm, her sun-kissed skin and luscious, flowing hair adding to her radiant look.
Instagram Highlights
The actress shared several posts from her stay at the resort. In a video, she can be seen enjoying the resort’s over-water villa and pool, dressed in a stunning red beachwear. She captioned the post, “Loving it at @coco_resorts #cocoboduhithi #cococollection #cocomaldives #cocollectionmaldives #birthdaygateway.”
Another heartwarming photo featured Mouni with her husband, captioned, “Love & gratitude is all I feel in my heart. Ty so much for all the lovely wishes ♥️ #grateful #thankful #blessed.”
https://www.instagram.com/p/DAkjB2RNjf_/
Memorable Experiences
Mouni also shared a video reflecting on her incredible stay, captioned, “Just returned from an incredible stay at Coco Bodu Hithi Maldives with the Mr & friends, and I can’t stop reflecting on the amazing experiences we shared. Snorkeling in those crystal-clear waters was meditative; the vibrant fishy life left us in awe. 🐠 🌊 One of the highlights was the unforgettable birthday dinner they organized on the beach. The setting was simply magical, with soft sand beneath our feet and the gentle sound of waves. We kept lying down on the sand looking up at the stars. You all took such great care of us, made the evening feel special and intimate. Spending three days immersed in the ocean was rejuvenating, and every moment was filled with laughter and joy. Grateful for these memories and the beautiful bond we share. Until next time, paradise! X @coco_resorts.”
In another post, she expressed her longing to return, captioning it, “Take me back already!!!”
Mouni Roy’s birthday celebration in the Maldives was a perfect blend of relaxation, adventure, and heartfelt moments, making it a memorable occasion for her and her loved ones. Her fans are eagerly awaiting more updates and stunning visuals from her tropical getaway.
Culture
Palace for the prince: Muleeage’s century-long journey through history
It was ‘honeymoon season’ in Suez. Sultan Haji Imadudeen was reigning on a throne of love in Egypt. But back home, those were darker times, as Maldives continued to borrow from Bohra merchants of Mumbai. After all, the wedding expenses of the monarch had to be paid by the state.
Imadudeen has appointed his younger brother, Dhoshee Manippulhu of Maandhooge, as the regent to take care of the state’s affairs, but it was Prince Ibrahim Dhoshimeynakilegefaan of Athireege who ruled. Prince Ibrahim’s son, Abdul Majeed Didi of Athireege, took charge of stabilising the nation.
Backed by the British masters and business elites in Male’, Abdul Majeed Didi began hatching a secret plan. Finally, by the early hours of March 10, 1910, onlookers could understand that something was happening in Muleege. Beeru Mohamed Fulhu, who was at the Friday Mosque, saw the door being opened and Mohamed Shamsudeen being escorted out by his brother-in-law Abdul Majeed Didi and Sayyid Kilegefaanu, also known as Khatheeb Seedhi. The two men accompanied Shamshudeen to Boduganduvaru, the royal palace, and placed him on the throne as Sultan Shamsudeen Iskandhar, Al-Salitc. As Shamsudeen was the brother-in-law of both men, the aim behind the plan could mean more than just stabilising the nation; there might have been personal motives and interests.
After appointing Shamsudeen the sultan, Khatheeb Seedhi told him that no one was ever going to challenge his reign. He said that Shamshudeen was not going to leave the throne unless he wished to do so.
Khatheeb Sidi’s saying became true, as Shamsudeen remained in power for the next 31 years, six months and 28 days. That was until he left behind all the privileges of a king for the sake of his beloved son Hassan Izzuddeen, for whom he built Henveyru Ganduvaru or Muleeage from where he started his journey to become the sultan at one midnight. As the famous public speaker and poet Ibrahim Shihab later said, the sultan abdicated for the only son he ever had.
Muleeage, the presidential palace which is now 105 years old, was originally built for Shamsudeen’s son and the then Crown Prince Hassan Izzudeen. The palace was originally named as Henveyru Ganduvaru. It was a symbol of the king’s love for his son.
The origin of this address goes back to the era of the heroic Sultan Hassan Izzudeen, also known as Dhonbandaarain. This plot of land was first used to build a thatch hut when Muhammad Manik of Mulee shifted his family to the capital city. The house was later inherited by Dhonbandaarain and then by Ibrahim Noorahdeen and then by his son Shamsudeen. Hassan Izzudeen was born to Shamsudeen and Sithi Didi, daughter of Bodu Sidi of Kalhuhurage.
When Izzudeen was studying in Ceylon, Shamsudeen decided to build the house before his son returned home. Shamsudeen decided to build it as a palace for the crown prince.
Fully funded by state coffers, the project was commissioned in 1914. Ahmed Dhoshimeyna Kiligefaanu of Athireege was assigned as the project manager. Architects and builders were brought from Ceylon. Architecture and the design was that of the Victorian era with a touch of colonial architectural design. Furniture too was imported from Ceylon. Few transoms were designed by Easa Mohamed Fulhu from the island of Kela in Haa Alif Atoll.
The palace was opened on December 7, 1919, with a special Mauloodh, a cultural prayer.
Izzudeen came back from Ceylon after his education to live in the palace as “Henveyru Ganduvaru Manippulhu”. He lived with privileges that don’t match with that of any other prince. As he was a highly-skilled musician, the palace became a theatre for music. Izzudeen sang with his beautiful voice whilst also playing harmonium. Boys of his dance group, widely known as “Nashaa Party” danced to his music, dressed as ladies. Boduberu too was part of the fun at the palace. It was full on partying till midnight on most days. It is said that the novel, Dhonthuhkalaage Gellunu Furaavaru (lost teenage of Dhonthuhkala), written by Muhammad Ismail Didi of Meerubahuruge, was based on an incident that happened at the palace.
The elite of Athireege took all that as inappropriate for a crown prince. Their disapproval grew and Izzudeen was considered as someone who is ineligible for the throne. The first written constitution in the history of Maldives was passed as a result. It was written in that constitution that the sultanate will only go to a grandson of Dhonbandarain, effectively removing Izzudeen from the royal inheritance path.
But the constitution was later received by the people as a burden, as new laws were introduced to a population that was not aware of such rules. It made their life miserable.
“We can’t bear this anymore,” they said, as they gathered at the Gulhakulhey Fasgandu, an open area just next to the headquarters of the army, and tore apart the document. They even attempted to bring out some ministers to be dealt with by the mob.
The country then saw increased hostile actions against the government from Izzudeen who tried to take over.
Prime Minister Hassan Fareed issued orders to arrest Izzudeen’s allies. Izzudeen went to Bodubandeyrige, then headquarters of security forces, in person to try save his allies. Shamsudeen left the throne to follow.
The prime minister, who was paving way for the change in government, used this as an opportunity to overthrow Shamsudeen. The latter was banished to Fuvahmulah, in the far south, together with his son Izzudeen.
Izzudeen died on the island after a short ailment, whilst Shamsudeen was brought back to Male’ as his health deteriorated. He died shortly thereafter. Henveyru Ganduvaru was deserted after that.
All the palaces except that of the sultan were later downgraded and Henveyru Ganduvaru became Muleeage, taking the name of the first house built at the address.
Muleeage was used for several purposes for the next 80 years before becoming the presidential palace in 1953. From 1942 to 1947, it was used to house the ministries of home affairs and defence, and the office of the head of intelligence. It also served as the headquarters of the first newspaper in the country, Sarukaaruge Khabaru.
With the first republic that came into being in 1953, Muleeage became the presidential palace, serving as the official residence of Mohamed Ameen Didi, the first president.
As the monarchy was reinstated after overthrowing Ameen and abolishing the republic in a coup, Muleeage became the office of the prime minister. Ibrahim Famuladeyrikiligefaan and Ibrahim Nasir were prime ministers who used the office. At one point during their administrations, Muleeage also housed the ministry of defence.
Presidential palace and several ministries at some point, Muleeage has been in use ever since.
Apart from this, several high profile guests of the state stayed there during their visits. Late Queen Elizabeth and her late husband, The Duke of Edinburgh Prince Philips were amongst those.
Although Ibrahim Nasir, as the first president of the second republic, declared Muleeage as the presidential palace again in 1970, he didn’t use it as such. His successor, Maumoon Abdul Gayoom, was the first president to formally use it as his official residence. He stayed there from 1988 to 1994, before moving to Theemuge, a newly built presidential palace which later became the Supreme Court.
The first Supreme Court, which was the result of the present day constitution, was temporarily housed in Muleeage in 2008. Then came President Mohamed Nasheed who chose to make it the presidential palace yet again. It was also used as the offices of a national inquiry commission, which was setup to investigate the events surrounding Nasheed’s early departure in 2012, before becoming the presidential palace again.
In the century that has passed since Muleeage was built in its current design, it has witnessed numerous historical events in the country. It witnessed the declaration of the first republic and the reinstating of the monarchy. It hosted heads of states as well as ministers from different parts of the world. Indian Prime Minister Rajiv Gandi was one amongst them to be remembered.
Been a place for all that, the status of Muleeage is much more important in our history; it was the childhood home of Hassan Izzudeen, Dhonbandaarain, the heroic sultan who freed Maldives from the short-lived rule of the Malabari invaders, also known as “Holhin”. This was the place from where he came out for his battle with the flag of freedom flying over his head.
Action
Utheemu Ganduvaru: Portal to Maldives’ national freedom
The Maldives, often celebrated for its sun-kissed beaches and turquoise waters, also offers a rich tapestry of history and culture waiting to be explored. Among the islands of Haa Alif Atoll lies Utheemu Island, home to Utheemu Ganduvaru, a historical treasure that invites travellers to delve into the storied past of the archipelago.
Utheemu Ganduvaru, the ancestral home of Muhammad Thakurufaanu, stands as a poignant reminder of the Maldives’ fight for independence. Thakurufaanu, revered as a national hero, led a successful campaign against Portuguese occupation in the 16th century. His childhood home, Utheemu Ganduvaru, offers a rare glimpse into the life and times of this legendary figure.
In 1558, the Portuguese invaded the Maldives, killing the Sultan in battle and establishing their rule. Muhammad Thakurufaanu and his brothers, Ali and Hassan, left for Minicoy to prepare a campaign to liberate their country. The boat they built, Kalhuohfummi, was crucial to their efforts. Thakurufaanu and his brothers fought the Portuguese for eight years, landing on different islands under cover of night to evade capture, and departing before daybreak. Eventually, they landed in Malé and defeated the Portuguese leadership in the capital. Freed from Portuguese rule, the people chose Muhammad Thakurufaanu as their Sultan.
Sultan Muhammad Thakurufaanu ruled the Maldives for 12 years until his death in 1585. He is remembered as a considerate and just ruler, concerned for the well-being of even the poorest citizens. He is also credited with establishing the country’s first formal military unit.
Back at Utheemu Island, visitors are immediately struck by the island’s tranquil beauty and its lush, green landscape. The journey to Utheemu Ganduvaru is a step back in time, where the echoes of history are palpable. The residence itself, a traditional wooden palace, is meticulously preserved, showcasing the architectural ingenuity and cultural richness of the period.
As you enter Utheemu Ganduvaru, the simplicity and elegance of the structure are apparent. Built from timber, the palace is a fine example of traditional Maldivian craftsmanship. The intricate woodwork, with its detailed carvings and polished surfaces, speaks volumes about the artisanship that flourished during Thakurufaanu’s time.
The main hall, with its open layout and cool, shaded interiors, offers a sense of serenity and reflection. It was within these walls that Thakurufaanu spent his formative years, and each room tells a story of his early life and the influences that shaped his destiny. The residence includes living quarters and storage spaces, all arranged in a manner that reflects the daily life of a prominent Maldivian family in the 16th century.
One of the most compelling aspects of Utheemu Ganduvaru is its connection to the larger narrative of Maldivian resistance against foreign rule. Guides at the site often recount tales of Thakurufaanu’s daring exploits and strategic brilliance. His knowledge of the archipelago’s intricate waterways and his leadership in naval battles are celebrated as key factors in the successful expulsion of the Portuguese in 1573.
Beyond its historical significance, Utheemu Ganduvaru offers visitors a deeper understanding of Maldivian culture and heritage. The site is a testament to the resilience and unity of the Maldivian people, embodying values that continue to inspire. For travellers, a visit to Utheemu Ganduvaru is an opportunity to connect with the soul of the Maldives, experiencing the essence of its history and the spirit of its people.
While on Utheemu Island, visitors can explore other points of interest, such as the island’s beaches and vibrant local community. Engaging with the locals offers additional insights into Maldivian traditions and hospitality, enriching the overall experience.
For those seeking a journey through time, Utheemu Ganduvaru in Haa Alif Atoll is a destination that should not be missed. It is a place where the past comes alive, where the legacy of a hero continues to resonate, and where the true essence of the Maldives can be discovered. As you walk through the halls of Utheemu Ganduvaru, you are not just a visitor; you are a part of a historical journey that defines the Maldivian identity.
So, when planning your next visit to the Maldives, venture beyond the beaches and dive into the rich history of these islands. Let Utheemu Ganduvaru be the highlight of your cultural exploration, offering a meaningful and memorable connection to the heart of Maldivian heritage.
Cover photo: Andreas Faessler
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