Culture
On a caravan, with one of the Sahara’s last European explorers
Climbing into the saddle, he adjusts the scarf protecting his head from the sun and, with a tap on the camel’s back, the caravan sets off.
Thierry Tillet is again off to explore the vast Saharan desert, at the head of a nine-camel convoy with three other riders.
At 68, the Frenchman is one of the last European explorers since the end of the 19th century to dedicate much of his life — 47 years — to crisscrossing the Sahara.
This expedition, which began before the coronavirus epidemic, starts and ends at two desert jewels in central Mauritania.
From Tichitt, the convoy is headed east to Oualata, 300 kilometres (185 miles) away, travelling in single file over a sandy, rocky landscape.
For the first time, Tillet — or Ghabidine, as a Tuareg friend renamed him — is taking journalists along “so that this knowledge reaches the general public”.
Perched on the back of his swaying camel, Tillet wears an old, holey T-shirt and worn sandals.
With his tousled, white hair and stubbled chin, it’s easy to forget he’s an authority in his field.
For many years he was a member of the anthropology laboratory at France’s National Centre for Scientific Research (CNRS).
He was also professor of prehistoric archaeology at Grenoble University and taught in Chad, Niger and Mali.
Throughout, he would go back and forth to the Sahara.
He has documented Neolithic civilisations, overseen the inventory of Malian archaeological sites and discovered a dinosaur skeleton in the Tenere desert in Niger.
“Sometimes, small fragments of discovered tools contain more information than a dinosaur, even if it’s less spectacular,” Tillet says.
In all its diversity
Exploring the history of the world’s largest expanse of arid land is a hugely diverse venture.
It can range from the forgotten religious centres of Sufi brotherhoods in northern Mali, to the sandstone plateaus in northeastern Chad and prehistoric Saharan settlements in Niger.
But trading his camel for the comfort of an air-conditioned vehicle as his mode of transport isn’t an option for Tillet.
“You’re going at the speed of the camel, and that allows me to observe and spot a number of things on the ground,” he says.
“In a car I wouldn’t be able to do that, it moves too quickly.”
Each trip brings something new, be it publications in scientific works, “a few stones brought back for research” or photos of objects from the Neolithic era, the last period of the Stone Age.
Currently it’s an 11th-century caravan depot lost in the Mauritanian dunes, the Ma’den Ijafen, that begs to be found.
“It was Theodore (Monod, the late French explorer) who discovered it in 1956,” Tillet says.
“He asked me to go back there.”
For three years now, he has been searching and, on this expedition, wants to ask around among nomadic shepherds.
The revealing winds
Tillet does not consider himself an adventurer or a daredevil.
“Exploration carries with it a fantasy. I’m not trying to discover the unknown, but to discover what exists!” he says.
“That is true scientific exploration.”
In this part of the Sahara, prehistoric artefacts are everywhere, constantly revealed by an omnipresent wind, but indistinguishable to the untrained eye.
“In a continental climate, it’s often necessary to dig… Here, it’s all on the surface.”
Without warning, he pulls the reins to stop, on spotting something interesting.
If he doesn’t know what it is, he takes notes and — in his only recourse to 21st-century technology — satellite coordinates using a GPS.
Once home in southwestern France’s Perigord region, he will transfer them onto a map, tirelessly completing what he calls his “spider’s web”.
The hundreds of GPS points are not only a scientific record but suggest the route of his next expedition.
Searching for a bull
Tillet, the son of Parisian bakers, said his love of Africa and archaeology began after hearing stories as a child.
But it was his first university professor who ignited the desire to go and see it for himself, encouraging him to focus on the Sahara.
On his first trip — in Algeria — it rained a lot.
“For someone wanting to study the Sahara, it was a bad start!” he says, laughing.
Tillet’s wife occasionally used to accompany him on his explorations.
But this time, his companions are Ahmadou, Sheih and Ahmed, whom he has known for many years.
Looks, gestures and common phrases in mixed mother tongues make up for any language barriers.
The days are punctuated by the same rituals: a sunrise departure, stops to drink green tea and finding a place where they can make supper before sleeping under the stars as the camels graze.
After two days, the caravan stops at Akreijit, an archaeological site discovered in 1934 by Monod and partly restored by a French team at the end of the last century.
The foundations of the old buildings are visible again.
European tourists disembark from their 4x4s in a cloud of dust and briskly visit the old town, just last year removed from the “red zones” where the French foreign ministry advises against travel.
Tillet looks for a drawing of a bull on a rock, located during a previous visit.
“It is two metres (6.5 feet) long,” he says. “My GPS point tells me it’s in 22 metres.”
He scans and searches, passing repeatedly through the ruins, but finds nothing.
‘At great risk’
Concerned about kidnappings, the French authorities are not always happy about the caravan’s off-the-radar trips.
“These people are as worrying as they are fascinating, so we have to keep an eye out,” a French diplomat in the sub-region later told AFP.
Three-quarters of the caravan’s route are in areas that travellers are officially advised by the French government to avoid.
“Objectively, he sometimes puts himself at great risk,” acknowledged Pierre Touya, president of the Association of Saharans which groups archaeologists, geographers and other enthusiasts.
Still, “he remains rational, does very good research and is supported by local knowledge,” he said.
On-the-ground information from locals is key to Tillet’s preparations before leaving.
By email and phone, he finds out about nomadic tribes’ movements or where there are wells for the animals to drink.
For decades, the region has been buffeted by inter-communal clashes, separatist insurgencies and conflicts between religious groups — and Tillet has often found himself on the front row.
In the 1990s, he met Iyad Ag Ghaly, then a rebel leader and now head of one of the main jihadist coalitions.
He also met French ethnologist Francoise Claustre in Chad before she was kidnapped in 1974 by Hissene Habre’s rebels.
And he has shared mechoui, a meal of slow-roasted lamb, with former Malian president and fellow archaeologist Alpha Oumar Konare.
“As long as I don’t bump into the bastards, it’s all right,” he smiles, talking about the jihadists, who are an escalating threat in the Sahel region.
In 2009, he was forced to hide in the northern Malian town of Kidal.
Alerted to the presence of “likely unfriendly” groups at a time when Tuareg independence rebellions and jihadist groups were emerging, he left at 4:00 am in a pick-up truck, his head down and face hidden.
That same year, he and his camel team were woken in the night by the blinding light of a surveillance drone in the desert of Mali’s Taoudenit region.
The jihadist expansion in the Sahel-Saharan strip has reduced exploration possibilities.
But, according to a source close to the authorities, interviewed in Mauritania’s capital, Nouakchott, a security grid set up a decade ago to counter the emerging jihadist influence is “once again allowing scientists and tourists to come”.
‘So much to document’
It’s day four and, after a cold night, he groans from the pain of an old foot injury as he climbs into the saddle.
But, neither the discomfort nor deteriorating regional security will stop him.
This desert is “the place where I feel the best, where you can’t go wrong”, he says.
When he reaches Oualata near the Mali border after what will have been a two-week journey, Tillet plans to relax and drink tea with an old acquaintance.
Even if he didn’t find the elusive caravan depot this time, he’s happy with the information gleaned.
Previously the projects were funded by his former employer, the CNRS, but since retiring in 2012, he pays the several thousand euros needed for the trip himself.
Monod got off his camel for the last time aged 93 and Tillet, a member of the French Society of Explorers, hopes to go on for a long while yet.
“There’s still so much to document,” he says.
For next year he is planning his longest route so far, at more than 1,000 km, back in the Sahara, with its many silences but, as he says, “where it’s never boring”.
Reporting and photos: AFP
The Ritz-Carlton Maldives, Fari Islands invites guests to celebrate Eid Al-Fitr with a thoughtfully curated program of experiences that brings families and loved ones together through culture, creativity, and refined island luxury. Unfolding across the resort’s signature venues, the celebrations feature an elegant calendar of culinary journeys, wellness rituals, immersive cultural moments, and family-friendly activities, all set against the serene natural beauty of the Fari Islands.
From 20th to 24th March 2026, guests are invited to experience a curated calendar of festive moments across the resort, celebrating Eid Al-Fitr through elevated dining, wellness rituals, family activities, and immersive cultural experiences.
Anchoring the celebration is Flowers by Harijanto, the multi-award-winning floral designer brings his masterful floristry to the resort between the 21st and 24th March. Blooming into spring in time for National Flower Day, Harijanto presents a series of immersive experiences including hands-on floral workshops, a botanical-inspired afternoon tea, and a culinary spectacle celebrating edible flowers paired with bespoke botanical cocktails.
Designed for guests of all ages, the program includes a dedicated mini-VIP floral workshop for children, while Harijanto’s signature touch extends throughout the resort, with bespoke in-villa Boenga floral arrangements crafted from local blooms and sustainably sourced materials, supporting the destination’s reduced carbon footprint.
Culinary Highlights
Guests can indulge in a refined selection of dining experiences throughout Eid Al-Fitr, including an Ocean Grill Buffet at Beach Shack, a Starlight Concert Dinner at EAU Bar, and a specially curated Arabic set menu at Mystique Garden. Interactive experiences include an Arabic Cooking Class at La Locanda, alongside floral-inspired afternoon teas and cocktail masterclasses.
Lifestyle & Entertainment
Festivities begin with a Resort Cocktail Party at Beach Shack on the 20th of March, setting the tone for elevated island evenings. Select nights feature live entertainment and themed dining experiences, offering an elegant yet celebratory atmosphere beneath the Maldivian sky. Families and couples can also enjoy a variety of daily recreational experiences, from curated watersports and guided diving excursions to private sandbank visits and indulgent floating breakfasts, all set against the backdrop of the turquoise ocean.
Wellness & Spa Experiences
The Ritz-Carlton Spa introduces a series of mindful wellness sessions for Eid Al Fitr, including sunrise and sunset yoga, meditation, and fitness rituals in scenic outdoor settings. Guests may also participate in hands-on spa workshops using Bamford products such as Face Yoga, Gua Sha Glow, and Spa Alchemist experiences, designed to restore balance and wellbeing during the holiday.
Among the highlights is the Bamford Signature Journey, exclusively designed for The Ritz-Carlton Maldives, Fari Islands. This immersive 150-minute ritual combines Japanese Shiatsu techniques with flowing Swedish massage movements to release tension and rebalance thebody’s’meridians, followed by wave-inspired strokes that echo the natural rhythm of the ocean.
Family, Teens & Ritz Kids
Families are at the heart of the Eid celebrations, with a full programme for younger guests. Ritz Kids can enjoy festive craft workshops, lantern-making, slime labs, treasure hunts, and Eid-themed creative sessions, while teens are invited to participate in architectural workshops, mosaic art, and interactive game challenges.
Nature & Marine Discovery
Led by the resort’s Naturalist Ladies and Dive Center, guests can connect with the surrounding marine environment through turtle, shark, and coral garden snorkeling, sunset cruises, traditional fishing, reef talks, and coral regeneration activities.
With its seamless blend of togetherness, creativity, and cultural appreciation, Eid Al-Fitr at The Ritz- Carlton Maldives, Fari Islands offers an enriching and elegant island escape, where meaningful moments unfold in a truly exceptional setting.
Guests are invited to discover the Signature Villas and select the perfect island retreat, from Two-Bedroom Beach Villas set along pristine coves to Two-Bedroom Overwater Villas poised above turquoise waters, each featuring private pools, expansive indoor and outdoor living spaces, and uninterrupted ocean views, ideal for families or small groups seeking refined seclusion. Those desiring heightened privacy may retreat to the resort’s exclusive estate enclave, a secluded sanctuary offering expansive multi-bedroom villas, infinity pools, outdoor dining pavilions, and personalised service from a dedicated Aris Meeha, your island butler.
The Embrace Island Life offer, valid for stays from now until December 20, 2026, enriches every escape with half-board dining across the resort’s celebrated restaurants, showcasing Maldivian, Japanese, Southern Italian, Cantonese, and Lebanese cuisine, along with return luxury shared speedboat transfers, curated welcome amenities, and 24-hour butler service, ensuring a seamless journey defined by effortless elegance from arrival to departure.
For more information, please visit ritzcarlton.com/Maldives.
Kuda Villingili Resort Maldives has announced a three-day Eid al-Fitr 1447 AH programme, inviting guests to celebrate the occasion from 19 to 21 March 2026 in a tranquil island setting that brings together family, reflection, and shared moments.
Following the holy month of Ramadan, Eid al-Fitr at the resort is designed as a gentle transition into celebration, offering guests the freedom to mark the festival at their own pace. The programme brings together families, couples, and friends through curated dining experiences, relaxed island gatherings, and moments of quiet connection by the Indian Ocean.
Culinary experiences form the centre of the Eid programme. Celebrations begin with the Kuda Eid Feast Buffet Dinner at The Restaurant, featuring Middle Eastern and Maldivian dishes served under the stars, accompanied by soft island music. Guests can also gather at Spice for the Kuda Eid Lunch Feast, a five-course Middle Eastern fusion menu by the Qureshi brothers, inspired by traditional flavours and designed for sharing in the spirit of Eid. Evenings continue at The Bar with an Arabic Shisha Night, combining live DJ music with a relaxed social atmosphere.
Eid mornings at the resort offer a calmer start to the day, with a Signature Floating Breakfast served in the privacy of each villa pool. Guests can also enjoy Eid Signature Mocktails, created with floral and spice notes that reflect the season’s sense of gratitude and renewal. An interactive Art of Shisha Making experience is also available, encouraging conversation and shared storytelling.
The Eid programme has been curated to include guests of all ages. Younger visitors are welcomed at Kuda Fiyo, where Eid-themed creative workshops, treasure trails, storytelling sessions, games, and movement activities are organised to create memorable experiences while reflecting the cultural significance of the occasion.
For families and adventure-seekers, the resort also offers Eid al-Fitr Ocean Adventures. A personalised Big Game Fishing experience provides an opportunity to spend time together on the open sea, combining quiet reflection with exploration of the surrounding waters.
With its expansive island layout, eight dining destinations, and the Maldives’ largest swimming pool, Kuda Villingili Resort Maldives presents an Eid al-Fitr celebration that blends tradition with contemporary island living, offering space, privacy, and a relaxed setting for guests seeking a meaningful Eid experience in the Maldives.
The full Eid al-Fitr 2026 programme can be viewed here. More information about the resort is available from the resort’s website.
This Diwali, SO/ Maldives is set to dazzle with a bold celebration that blends cultural tradition with the resort’s signature flair. Guests are invited to indulge in a day of flavor, music, and style, wrapped in the spirit of light and festivity.
The day begins at The Citronelle Club, where guests can immerse themselves in India’s sweetest traditions with a complimentary Gulab Jamun cooking class. This hands-on session not only celebrates the art of crafting one of India’s most iconic desserts but also offers guests a memorable experience of cooking and tasting together in true festive spirit.
Following the workshop, the culinary journey continues with an exclusive tasting of SO/ Maldives’ brand-new Indian à la carte menu. Bursting with bold flavors and modern interpretations, this exciting menu brings a fresh twist to traditional favorites, showcasing dishes designed to delight both seasoned gourmands and those discovering Indian cuisine for the first time.
As the afternoon rolls into evening, the celebrations flow seamlessly to Lazuli Beach Club and The Citronelle Club, where guests can savor the moment with 40% off select premium beverage bottles. Whether shared over a meal or enjoyed as a toast to togetherness, these indulgent pours elevate the festive mood with sophistication.
The evening comes alive with a vibrant lineup of cultural and family-friendly activities. Guests can express their creativity at a Family Diya Workshop, lighting up the night with personalized clay lamps that symbolize joy and prosperity. At Lazuli Beach Club, a Henna Workshop invites guests to adorn their hands with intricate patterns, while the beachfront transforms into a canvas for a Rangoli experience, where colorful designs bloom in the sand to celebrate the artistry and spirit of Diwali.
No Diwali celebration is complete without a golden-hour glow. At Lazuli Beach, the festivities shine brighter with 50% off saffron martinis during sunset, accompanied by live DJ beats. As the Maldivian sky turns to hues of orange and gold, guests can sip, sway, and soak in an electric yet elegant atmosphere, perfectly in tune with the spirit of Diwali.
“At SO/ Maldives, we reimagine cultural celebrations with a bold, chic island twist. This Diwali, we’ve curated a day that’s all about indulgence, flavors, music, and unforgettable moments,” said Olivier MOIES-DELVAL, General Manager, SO/ Maldives. “It’s about honoring tradition while celebrating in style, surrounded by the natural beauty and energy of the Maldives.”
SO/ Maldives invites guests to light up their Diwali with this one-of-a-kind experience that blends the richness of Indian traditions with the resort’s signature playful luxury.
Celebrate light, flavor, and island chic this Diwali at SO/ Maldives.
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