Culture
On a caravan, with one of the Sahara’s last European explorers
Climbing into the saddle, he adjusts the scarf protecting his head from the sun and, with a tap on the camel’s back, the caravan sets off.
Thierry Tillet is again off to explore the vast Saharan desert, at the head of a nine-camel convoy with three other riders.
At 68, the Frenchman is one of the last European explorers since the end of the 19th century to dedicate much of his life — 47 years — to crisscrossing the Sahara.
This expedition, which began before the coronavirus epidemic, starts and ends at two desert jewels in central Mauritania.
From Tichitt, the convoy is headed east to Oualata, 300 kilometres (185 miles) away, travelling in single file over a sandy, rocky landscape.
For the first time, Tillet — or Ghabidine, as a Tuareg friend renamed him — is taking journalists along “so that this knowledge reaches the general public”.
Perched on the back of his swaying camel, Tillet wears an old, holey T-shirt and worn sandals.
With his tousled, white hair and stubbled chin, it’s easy to forget he’s an authority in his field.
For many years he was a member of the anthropology laboratory at France’s National Centre for Scientific Research (CNRS).
He was also professor of prehistoric archaeology at Grenoble University and taught in Chad, Niger and Mali.
Throughout, he would go back and forth to the Sahara.
He has documented Neolithic civilisations, overseen the inventory of Malian archaeological sites and discovered a dinosaur skeleton in the Tenere desert in Niger.
“Sometimes, small fragments of discovered tools contain more information than a dinosaur, even if it’s less spectacular,” Tillet says.
In all its diversity
Exploring the history of the world’s largest expanse of arid land is a hugely diverse venture.
It can range from the forgotten religious centres of Sufi brotherhoods in northern Mali, to the sandstone plateaus in northeastern Chad and prehistoric Saharan settlements in Niger.
But trading his camel for the comfort of an air-conditioned vehicle as his mode of transport isn’t an option for Tillet.
“You’re going at the speed of the camel, and that allows me to observe and spot a number of things on the ground,” he says.
“In a car I wouldn’t be able to do that, it moves too quickly.”
Each trip brings something new, be it publications in scientific works, “a few stones brought back for research” or photos of objects from the Neolithic era, the last period of the Stone Age.
Currently it’s an 11th-century caravan depot lost in the Mauritanian dunes, the Ma’den Ijafen, that begs to be found.
“It was Theodore (Monod, the late French explorer) who discovered it in 1956,” Tillet says.
“He asked me to go back there.”
For three years now, he has been searching and, on this expedition, wants to ask around among nomadic shepherds.
The revealing winds
Tillet does not consider himself an adventurer or a daredevil.
“Exploration carries with it a fantasy. I’m not trying to discover the unknown, but to discover what exists!” he says.
“That is true scientific exploration.”
In this part of the Sahara, prehistoric artefacts are everywhere, constantly revealed by an omnipresent wind, but indistinguishable to the untrained eye.
“In a continental climate, it’s often necessary to dig… Here, it’s all on the surface.”
Without warning, he pulls the reins to stop, on spotting something interesting.
If he doesn’t know what it is, he takes notes and — in his only recourse to 21st-century technology — satellite coordinates using a GPS.
Once home in southwestern France’s Perigord region, he will transfer them onto a map, tirelessly completing what he calls his “spider’s web”.
The hundreds of GPS points are not only a scientific record but suggest the route of his next expedition.
Searching for a bull
Tillet, the son of Parisian bakers, said his love of Africa and archaeology began after hearing stories as a child.
But it was his first university professor who ignited the desire to go and see it for himself, encouraging him to focus on the Sahara.
On his first trip — in Algeria — it rained a lot.
“For someone wanting to study the Sahara, it was a bad start!” he says, laughing.
Tillet’s wife occasionally used to accompany him on his explorations.
But this time, his companions are Ahmadou, Sheih and Ahmed, whom he has known for many years.
Looks, gestures and common phrases in mixed mother tongues make up for any language barriers.
The days are punctuated by the same rituals: a sunrise departure, stops to drink green tea and finding a place where they can make supper before sleeping under the stars as the camels graze.
After two days, the caravan stops at Akreijit, an archaeological site discovered in 1934 by Monod and partly restored by a French team at the end of the last century.
The foundations of the old buildings are visible again.
European tourists disembark from their 4x4s in a cloud of dust and briskly visit the old town, just last year removed from the “red zones” where the French foreign ministry advises against travel.
Tillet looks for a drawing of a bull on a rock, located during a previous visit.
“It is two metres (6.5 feet) long,” he says. “My GPS point tells me it’s in 22 metres.”
He scans and searches, passing repeatedly through the ruins, but finds nothing.
‘At great risk’
Concerned about kidnappings, the French authorities are not always happy about the caravan’s off-the-radar trips.
“These people are as worrying as they are fascinating, so we have to keep an eye out,” a French diplomat in the sub-region later told AFP.
Three-quarters of the caravan’s route are in areas that travellers are officially advised by the French government to avoid.
“Objectively, he sometimes puts himself at great risk,” acknowledged Pierre Touya, president of the Association of Saharans which groups archaeologists, geographers and other enthusiasts.
Still, “he remains rational, does very good research and is supported by local knowledge,” he said.
On-the-ground information from locals is key to Tillet’s preparations before leaving.
By email and phone, he finds out about nomadic tribes’ movements or where there are wells for the animals to drink.
For decades, the region has been buffeted by inter-communal clashes, separatist insurgencies and conflicts between religious groups — and Tillet has often found himself on the front row.
In the 1990s, he met Iyad Ag Ghaly, then a rebel leader and now head of one of the main jihadist coalitions.
He also met French ethnologist Francoise Claustre in Chad before she was kidnapped in 1974 by Hissene Habre’s rebels.
And he has shared mechoui, a meal of slow-roasted lamb, with former Malian president and fellow archaeologist Alpha Oumar Konare.
“As long as I don’t bump into the bastards, it’s all right,” he smiles, talking about the jihadists, who are an escalating threat in the Sahel region.
In 2009, he was forced to hide in the northern Malian town of Kidal.
Alerted to the presence of “likely unfriendly” groups at a time when Tuareg independence rebellions and jihadist groups were emerging, he left at 4:00 am in a pick-up truck, his head down and face hidden.
That same year, he and his camel team were woken in the night by the blinding light of a surveillance drone in the desert of Mali’s Taoudenit region.
The jihadist expansion in the Sahel-Saharan strip has reduced exploration possibilities.
But, according to a source close to the authorities, interviewed in Mauritania’s capital, Nouakchott, a security grid set up a decade ago to counter the emerging jihadist influence is “once again allowing scientists and tourists to come”.
‘So much to document’
It’s day four and, after a cold night, he groans from the pain of an old foot injury as he climbs into the saddle.
But, neither the discomfort nor deteriorating regional security will stop him.
This desert is “the place where I feel the best, where you can’t go wrong”, he says.
When he reaches Oualata near the Mali border after what will have been a two-week journey, Tillet plans to relax and drink tea with an old acquaintance.
Even if he didn’t find the elusive caravan depot this time, he’s happy with the information gleaned.
Previously the projects were funded by his former employer, the CNRS, but since retiring in 2012, he pays the several thousand euros needed for the trip himself.
Monod got off his camel for the last time aged 93 and Tillet, a member of the French Society of Explorers, hopes to go on for a long while yet.
“There’s still so much to document,” he says.
For next year he is planning his longest route so far, at more than 1,000 km, back in the Sahara, with its many silences but, as he says, “where it’s never boring”.
Reporting and photos: AFP
Holiday Inn Resort Kandooma Maldives showcases the archipelago nation’s rich Maldivian heritage to holidaymakers through specially curated guest experiences centred on exploration and learning.
Guests are invited to experience the “Spirit of the Maldives” Tuesday weekly event, which features a lavish buffet dinner with all the traditional favourites. Local Maldivian cuisine is influenced by the familiar flavours and spices used in Indian and Arabic cuisine. It has a particular emphasis on readily available foods such as fresh Tuna fish, chilli and coconut. The evening also includes a lively cultural performance of dance, song, music and light by the Kandooma Bodu Beru dance troupe, where rhythmic drumming, graceful movement and soulful singing tell stories of the islands’ history and folklore captivating the audience with their artistry. US $69++ for Adults and complimentary for Children (U12).
For those eager to delve deeper into the culinary traditions, “Maldivian Masterclasses” are held twice each week (3 pm to 4 pm on Tuesdays and Saturdays) and offer a group cooking class experience where participants can learn the secrets to the flavours and food combinations from the resort’s talented chefs. The experience is completed with a tasting session and recipes to recreate the dishes when they return home to share with family and friends. The classes are limited to 8 people. US $80 per person, adults only.
Discover your rhythm and beat in a complimentary “Bodu Beru Drumming Class” held each Saturday morning at the Resort. Learn about the relevance of Bodu Beru and the
large drums (traditionally made from coconut wood and covered with goat or manta ray skin) that provide a robust and captivating beat that often starts with a slow, steady rhythm that builds intensity and is accompanied by chanted lyrics. Complimentary for everyone.
“Our cultural showcase is a terrific opportunity for visitors to learn about the Maldives while staying with us. Whether they learn to play Bodu Beru, savour local delicacies, or enjoy a captivating performance, the experiences provide an unforgettable journey into the heart of island culture and make memories to last a lifetime,” said Mark Eletr, General Manager, Holiday Inn Resort Kandooma Maldives.
“It makes a big difference to the guest experience to have an international staff where foreign visitors can minimise language barriers, and we’re proud to do that for our key markets. But what guests remark on the most is how lovely it is to see Maldivian people working at Kandooma and sharing their stories and bright smiles. Our Maldivian team members have a special warmth about them, and when guests feel it too, it gives me that warm, fuzzy feeling. It’s very special.” he added.
Holiday Inn Resort Kandooma Maldives proudly aims to have a team comprised of more than 40% local Maldivian people. A key element of the resort’s Sustainability commitment is to support local communities and economies and promote the culture. In doing so, Mark Eletr says the team intends for guests to leave with special memories of their time in the Maldives and a deep sense of connection through the showcased activities and the experiences that will stay with them long beyond their visit.
Kandooma Maldives creates an atmosphere of warmth and hospitality while reflecting the genuine spirit of the Maldivian people.
Located in the South Male atoll just 40 minutes from the airport by boat, Holiday Inn Resort Kandooma Maldives is a beautiful, natural island paradise. White sand beaches, swaying coconut palms and turquoise waters form the backdrop for leisure pursuits and some of the best scuba diving in the Maldives. Guests can choose from Garden and Beach Villas, two-storey Beach Houses and the popular Overwater Villas. Families are well catered for with a choice of 2- and 3-bed villas and the Kandoo Kids’ Club with its fun activities programme. Six food and beverage outlets ensure healthy appetites are satisfied and the flavours of the Maldives are explored. Guests seeking time out and relaxation will enjoy sun-loungers and hammocks dotted around the island. Kandooma Spa by COMO Shambhala offers a tranquil escape for body and mind.
The stunning all-natural resort paradise, JA Manafaru, invites guests to immerse themselves in the rich culture of the Maldives during their Maldivian Cultural Week.
Located in Haa Alifu Atoll, they are proud to be “the Real Maldives and are promoting this by holding this weeklong event, held from July 22nd to July 26th, 2024.
This exciting week coincides with Maldives’ Independence Day and offers a unique opportunity to experience the island nation’s vibrant traditions and customs.
The festivities begin on July 22nd with a captivating tour of the resort’s cultural exhibit, Magey Hiyaa.
Excitement builds on July 23rd as the celebration continues with an unforgettable Maldivian night, where guests savour a traditional feast called served “Malaafaiy” style at Kakuni restaurant, followed by a mesmerising Boduberu performance.
On July 25th, a captivating Maldivian Cooking Class led by the talented Executive Chef, Chef Moosa Nazeeh, takes place at Kakuni. Guests can learn the secrets behind the country’s most beloved dishes.
The week culminates on July 26th, Maldives Independence Day, with a traditional flag-raising ceremony on the beach. Guests can join the national pride as the Maldivian National Anthem fills the air.
The celebrations conclude with a delightful Maldivian-themed afternoon tea featuring local delicacies served at the Veli Bar. As guests savour the flavours, they are enthralled by the rhythmic beats of another Boduberu performance.
“Maldivian Cultural Week is a fantastic opportunity for our guests to discover the heart and soul of the Maldives,” says Jason Kruse, General Manager at JA Manafaru. “We are thrilled to offer this immersive experience that allows guests to connect with the rich culture and traditions of our beautiful island nation.”
Experience the magic of the Maldives and immerse yourself in its culture at JA Manafaru during Maldivian Cultural Week. For reservations or inquiries, please contact reservations.manafaru@jaresorts.com or via WhatsApp +960 766 0170.
Anantara Kihavah Maldives Villas has announced the launch of “Journey Through Maldivian Heritage,” an immersive cultural experience that aims to introduce the luxury resort’s guests to a variety of local customs and artisanal activities designed to celebrate the heritage and traditions of the Maldives.
Available every Thursday, this all-day initiative offers guests the opportunity to immerse themselves fully in local heritage by making a genuine connection to the Maldivian people and their culture. From the moment guests wake up, they are treated to a wide selection of authentic Maldivian specialities at breakfast. Then as they stroll around the island, guests will see the team proudly dressed in traditional Maldivian attire. With guidance from the resort’s dedicated team and local artisans, guests will experience traditional corals, local cuisine, and cultural activities throughout the day.
Suitable for guests of all ages, the many engaging artisanal activities on offer include a Palm Leaf Weaving Workshop, where guests can learn traditional weaving techniques and create their own beautiful palm leaf corals such as ornaments, baskets, hats, and more. For those seeking a musical experience, the Bodu Beru Drum Class offers guests an opportunity to immerse themselves in the rhythm and movement of traditional Maldivian drumming and dance. Culinary explorers can participate in a hands-on Maldivian Cooking Class with a local master chef as he reveals the secrets of Maldivian cuisine.
As part of the fully immersive adventure, the Local Island Visit encourages guests to explore a nearby island and experience the local way of life up close. The Traditional Maldivian Sunset Fishing activity provides guests with an opportunity to try their hand at fishing using traditional methods against the backdrop of a stunning sunset. The Fishing Net Making Class, led by local experts, teaches the skill of making fishing nets that has been handed down across multiple generations. For the more active fun seekers, there is an unmissable opportunity to join in a Bashi Game, a traditional Maldivian sport which is similar to volleyball.
As the sun sets, the team and guests will gather for the mesmerising Bodu Beru Sundowner Ritual. Celebrating the end of the day, the ceremony begins with the lighting of torches before the rhythmic beats of a Maldivian bodu beru performance by the team combine to create an enchanting and unforgettable experience.
Anantara Kihavah is committed to offering guests an authentic and immersive experience that captures the heart and soul of the Maldives. Through these cultural activities, the resort aims to create lasting memories and a deeper appreciation for Maldivian heritage.
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